SPRUCE

Thanksgiving at Spruce

2009-11-20T10:19:00.002+08:00

Thanksgiving is my favorite holiday of the year, period. When I was a kid, we used to have huge feasts that seemed to last all day and mysteriously re-appear for the next week in various disguises. Thanksgiving dinner is a ritual. You know exactly whats gonna happen.

11am: Dress up nice for the in laws and wear the biggest pants you have
1pm: Full Thanksgiving mode, food on the table, biggest decision, more stuffing or stealing the rest of the dark meat you hid below all the carved white meat
2pm: very close to bursting, mind says keep going, stomach urges you to stop. Note: always listen to your stomach
3pm: waddling around like an overweight penguin, strategically planning how to lure cousin from sofa to snag the "thanksgiving nap", tell him grandma wants to talk to him, works every time
4pm: quiet slumber, can't get dreams of flying turkeys out of my head
5pm: you would think not possible but craving a turkey, cranberry and mayo sandwich, b-line to the kitchen
6pm: can not stand the smell of turkey any more, till next year.

Well, we may be far away from home, but cooking Thanksgiving dinner is for me one of the highlights of my year. I love it. We have two options this year. You can book a family style feast in our private dining room with a whole roasted turkey and all the fixin's or come in for a 3 course set that has everything on one plate. Either way a great way to spend the night. Please call the restaurant to book your spots now. Cheers!

Here are both the menus:
Family Style: Private Room 10-14 pax at 80++ per person
First Course
Pumpkin Soup with Chestnuts, Maple and Brioche Croutons

Served Family Style
Main Course
Roasted Tom Turkey Cornbread Stuffing with Pan Gravy
Mashed Desiree Potatoes with Salted Butter
Baked Macaroni and Cheese with Truffle
Sautéed Wild Mushrooms with Herbs
Roasted Apples with Cardamom, Cinnamon and Rosemary
Homemade Cranberry Sauce
Winter Salad of Persimmon and Pomegranate
Dessert Warm Ginger Date Pudding with Chocolate Toffee Sauce
Coffee or Tea

Three Course Set: $65++ per person
First Course
Pumpkin Soup Chestnuts, Maple and Brioche Croutons
or
Holiday Spiced Foie GrasApple Variations ($10 Supp)
or
Winter SaladPomegranate and Persimmon

Main Course
Roasted Tom Turkey Cornbread Stuffing with Pan Gravy, Mashed Desiree Potatoes and Homemade Cranberry Sauce

Dessert
Warm Ginger Date Pudding Chocolate Toffee Sauce
Coffee or Tea

Wine Dinner Series

2009-10-02T23:16:00.002+08:00

I am very excited to announce my new pet project. It will be a monthly dinner series featuring some of the most exciting and inspiring wines from all over the world. Our private room was designed with this dinner series in mind, to intimately host up to 12 diners. Our first dinner is a great one and features wines made in beautiful and bountiful, Tasmania. Kreglinger Wine Estates have a long history of producing some of the finest sparkling wines outside of champagne and also have many other projects including the illustrious Ninth Island and Pipers Brook Vineyards which are becoming reknowned for making extraordinary Pinot Noir. Our first dinner is next Thursday October 8, 2009. I have only a handful of spots left so please let me know soon if you would like me to reserve a place for you or call the restaurant directly to make a booking. Below is the menu and the wines we will be featuring. I can't wait and hope to meet some of you there. All the best and cheers!

Kreglinger Dinner october 08, 2009 $95++
Winemakers Dinner with Nathan Hyde

First Course
Marinated Tuna avocado red radish kaffir lime
Kreglinger, Sparkling, Brut, Tasmania, 2003

Second Course
Burrata Cheese momotaro tomato basil ligurian olive oil
Ninth Island, Pinot Grigio, Tasmania, 2008

Third Course
Japanese Scallops golden raisin ras al hanout green apple
Pipers Brook Estate, Riesling, Tasmania, 2007

Fourth Course
Sweet Onion Crepe reggiano parmigiano white truffle
Pipers Brook, Reserve, Pinot Noir, 2004

Fifth Course
Grilled Filet of Beef mushroom beurre rouge potato fondant
Pipers Brook Estate, Tamar Blend, Tasmania, 2004

Dessert
Coconut and Blueberry Tart vanilla bean ice cream

The Creative Process

2009-09-02T00:54:00.001+08:00

The mind of a chef is often filled with taste and flavor memories, seemingly shook up over time like one of those snow globes that everyone recieves at Christmas. Most often the context of a new dish is created in my head and eaten before a fork can even get close. Questions like texture and temperature contrast are debated at length and whether the dish has consistency or execution issues or wether it costs too much. But, the most important question is, Does it taste great?

I always feel that a great dish is one that has gone through a rigorous editing process. In that I mean, ingredients and techniques are scrutinized and the question is asked: What does this particular ingredient or technique do for the dish? If I cannot answer that question then it gets removed and I move on. I am currently developing a few new ideas for dishes to add to the menu and this is the process I go through. Many times, conceptually the dish sounds great and in my head I can taste the components working together, but in reality there is a diversion or confluence of other matters at play. I would say out of ten dishes I conceive theoretically only 1 will ever actually make it to the plate and your stomachs.

New Happenings

2009-07-15T23:39:00.002+08:00

Hey, sorry for the looooooooong delay. I didn't realize its almost been two months since I posted last, how crazy. In any event, we have been working hard everyday to make your experience here better than the last and we have a host of new updates for everyone out there. First, the space, we have just finalized plans for our new bar on our lower patio which will feature a Japanese style sit-down bar framed by mid century modern furnishings and raw wood tables and bar counter. I am truly excited not only for the bar but also because we have retained the skills of a japanese trained bartender who used to serve me my favorite cocktails at Coffee Bar K. Expect really great cocktails, hand carved ice and a selection of wonderful libations from the world over.

For those with Children, we have just completed our Spruce Playground which should serve as a great tool to keep the kids occupied while you try to get a good cup of coffee in the morning, undisturbed.

We have also been working on and are completing a Spruce Canteen, a small takeaway hut just at the top of Phoenix Park that will serve some local favorites, our bakery goods and of course a few Spruce special features such as the SpruceDog!

I have just amended all of our menus to include some new items for both lunch and dinner. A tuscan inspired Antipasto Salad with fire roasted Capsicum, chickpeas and green olive vinaigrette is my new favorite. Our rendition of the "Fathers Office" burger was so popular we decided that it had to be on the menu full time, so it is. Lastly, what is fast becoming our signature dessert, The Spruce Sundae, has finally moved from feature item to the full time menu. I would tell you more but I think you have to experience the Sundae for yourself to make up your mind, it is truly decadent.

For Brunch you have to try the new Steak and Eggs Benedict with Black Pepper Hollandaise on toasted Ciabatta, it is easily one of the best things I have created this year and as an aside is a great hangover remedy. Also, don't miss our Spruce Cinammon Rolls that are baked fresh to order. The wafts of cinammon and sugar as they pass through the dining room are intoxicating.

I think thats it for now. Hope to see all of you soon. Cheers!!

Subjectivity

2009-05-23T00:34:00.003+08:00

This business is all about one thing, making people happy. That's it, very simple. It could be as straightforward as making a perfect cup of coffee for someone on an early Sunday morning or as elaborate as arranging a flawless event for someone to celebrate as special moment in their lives. While that may sound easy, the steps involved to make each person who visits the restaurant happy is numerous. Consider this, I had a guest last week who thought the food was fantastic but the sound of a servers shoes on the hard wooden floor annoyed her to no end and that little thing was a huge thing to her(note: he has new shoes now). Conversely, I recently had a guest who found the service by a particular staff to be gracious and warm, while another guest found the same person to be cold and inattentive.

The complexities of human interaction and the perception of similar circumstances and events are fascinating to me. These complexities pose a challenge to me and my staff and we constantly talk about how to "read" certain tables for clues on how they would like to be served. This of course takes experience and time as well as an innate ability to anticipate the needs of someone who you just came into contact with. What this also means is that everybody has different expectations, whether it be of the food, service or ambiance.

We are all formulating a subjective response to the situation. I strongly believe in the products, people and place that we have here at Spruce and when we fail to meet a guests expectations I am honestly very hurt. I also believe that we can't be everything to everyone. We are who we are and while some people may think we are great others may think differently and that's ok. All we can do is move forward and look at ways to become better and act accordingly. I think as a restaurateur you must be confident in your product and not be afraid to feel strongly about the services and products you provide. But, you also must be humble and admit when you were wrong and make it right. Till next time.

The next step

2009-05-15T00:28:00.002+08:00

We have started to settle in at the restaurant and our days are becoming more routine. I have finally had some time to refine some of the dishes, look at possible new ones and more or less get back to cooking everyday. My goal was always to keep the food fresh and exciting and by that I mean not only on a purely product level, but continuing to evolve and change dishes as we go in rhythm with the seasons or just from inspiration.

A few new ideas play around the concept of our burger. While we think the Spruce burger is great, we all know that burgers can be a wonderful canvas for supporting many different flavors. I have always wanted to reference some of the great burgers I have had from other places and as such will start tomorrow with the introduction of the "Fathers Office" Burger. A homage if you will to the now famous Los Angeles Institution serving its burger with a caramelized onion and bacon compote with blue cheese and garlic mayonnaise. Stop in and tell me what you think.

My team and I have also started to explore foods and flavors of our childhood to bring back and put a twist on, so this week for brunch we will be featuring Blueberry Waffles with Real Maple Syrup, Vanilla Ice Cream and Homemade Streusel and Warm Buttermilk Biscuits with Poached Eggs and our Homemade Sausage Gravy.

Please feel free to ask for me if you have been reading the blog. I always love to meet new guests. Cheers!

Operating Hours

2009-04-12T14:38:00.002+08:00

Thank you to all who have commented on the blog. I first want to address our revised Operating hours as they have changed recently.

Monday-Friday 10.30am-10.30pm (last food order 10.15)
Serving Bakery Items, Coffee and Tea from 2.30-5.30

Saturday & Sunday 8.30am-10.30pm (serving brunch from 8.30-2.30 both days)
Serving Bakery Items, Coffee and Tea from 2.30-5.30

I appreciate those of you taking the time to write and we are working on many things to make the experience here much better, including the answering of phone calls. I genuinely want everyone to have a great experience with us, and unfortunately there have been some stumbles along the way, so for this I apologize, but know that we are committed to creating a great all around restaurant. Thanks for your understanding.

The good and not so good

2009-04-09T00:25:00.003+08:00

What can I say, we have been blessed by the response to the restaurant. It has been overwhelming at times and to be honest we had a few rough patches along the way. What is true though is that everyday we are getting better and learning from our mistakes. We have been fortunate enough to get a lot of feedback and we use this in a constructive way to help better not only the restaurant but ourselves as well. Our staff has been the backbone to our success and have continued to give 100% every step of the way with a smile on thier face.

I must also apologize to all those people who have called the restaurant to make a booking and have either been told we are fully booked or have just been left to hear the phone ringing. We never want to dissapoint any guest and when we do not answer it is not that we are trying to ignore you, we just physically do not have enough people to answer the phones! The reservations have been filling up fast and I can tell you that it is our intention to leave room for walk-ins at all times, we want the restaurant to be accessible to everyone. So if you cannot book, I encourage you to come on down, most of the time you will have no problem getting a table.

There have also been some changes at the restaurant and we are continuing to evolve and look at how to better both our food and service. We are not perfect, but we aim to be as close as possible. I thank all of you who have shown continued support and for your encouragement along the way. This is a dream of both mine and my partner Danny's, to create a restaurant where everyone feels at home. Hope to see you soon.

T

Open for Business!!!!

2009-03-22T16:57:00.005+08:00

Hello, I am very excited and happy to announce that Spruce is officially open for business. It has been an amazing experience with ups and downs along the way but I wouldn't trade it for the world. I want to first give acknowledgement to my great staff who have embraced the meaning of hospitality and given 110% every step of the way. We most definitely could not have done it without them.

Spruce, aims to be a neighborhood restaurant that serves genuine food and drink with our trademark hospitality. We currently serve breakfast, lunch and dinner 7 days a week from 8am-1030pm. During the midday, we encourage people to stop in and sample our scones and pastries with a pot of tea or coffee or to simply indulge in our signature chocolate chip cookies and decadent double chocolate fudge brownies.

Our coffee and tea has won rave reviews thus far and is backed up by a super rich and thick Hot Chocolate as well as a beautifully fragrant Masala Tea that is filled with aromatic spices and warm steamed milk. But my favorite beverage has to be the mint lemonade with fresh squeezed lemons, mint leaf and homemade sugar syrup.

Brunch offers a great array of breakfast favorites mixed in with some more traditional offerings such as our Cesar salad with crispy poached egg, our signature burger and a beautiful Ahi Tuna Tartar with our house made ciabatta bread.

Overall, I am very happy with the progress for the first week. I thank all of you who have supported me over the years for your valuable feedback, it is much appreciated. Here are the details for the restaurant and I hope that your experience here proves to be a great one.

Spruce

restaurant bar bakery

320 Tanglin Road, Phoenix Park

t: 68365528

email: reservations@spruce.com.sg

Cocktails and Creations

2009-03-07T00:21:00.003+08:00

Wow, first, let me thank all of you who wrote in with kind words of encouragement, it really means a lot. We are so close at the restaurant and will be putting on the final touches in the next few days. We have already booked our first private event at the restaurant, so things will start with a bang.

Ok, on to cocktails. I have been thinking about our cocktail program for a long time and honestly was a little lost up until today. What spawned the sudden creativity was delivery from a supplier who brought us our Sodas for the restaurant. A couple of months back we did a tasting of Tiro Sodas from Australia and immediately fell in love. With great flavors of elderflower, grapefruit, blood orange and passionfruit it all clicked. Why don't I use those flavor bases as the beginnings of great ingredient driven cocktails. So here is what I came up with:

Blood Orange Negroni (Campari, Gin, Blood Orange Soda and Sweet Vermouth)

Ginger and Elderflower Fizz (Ginger Syrup, Elderflower Soda, Mint Leaves, Calamansi Lime, Gin)

Back Porch Passion Fruit Lemonade (Passion Fruit Soda, Cranberry, Lemon Juice, Vodka, Fresh Ginger)

Basil and Grapefruit Summer Punch (Gin, Cointreau, Basil Leaves, Lime Juice, Grapefruit Juice)

They each use a different Soda and will be the anchors on our house cocktail list. I can't wait to get into the bar and start developing the recipes for these libations! Of course these are just ideas, we will have to see what reality brings when I start mixing, but I can already taste these refreshing cocktails and know they will be a great thirst quencher on hot days in the Singapore Sun. Cheers!

A slight delay

2009-02-28T23:45:00.002+08:00

Wow, things have really been moving fast. It seems like yesterday that we started construction. After, some ups and downs though it finally look like we will be able to open in the next 10 days or so. While we had hoped to be open by the beginning of March things have moved a little slower than anticipated. But, with every set back it becomes clear that the space is truly special. I am so excited to serve all of you again and to welcome new guests to a really unique and great space.

With all the delays the one thing that was completed early was the kitchen, which has been great to do some testing and tasting. What has become clear is that I have a great team of passionate and committed cooks whose sole goal is to make the best food they can. The food style is decidedly European with a focus on Italy and France with just a touch of fresh Asian Flavor. The food is bright, fresh and clean with little frying or butter used throughout.

Our Bakery is taking shape and I tasted some great bread over the last few days and can say that our bread will stand head and above the rest. We are using old world bread making techniques, high quality ingredients and baking fresh everyday. Along with our bread program we will also be showcasing beautiful tarts and cakes in the dining room for everyone to see. They include a gorgeous blueberry and coconut tart with just a hint of lemon, a decadent valrhona chocolate tart on a polenta crust and a superbly sweet/sour whole lemon tart that has just the right amount of bitterness and lemony sweetness. Along with all of that we will be baking muffins, scones, cookies and cupcakes fresh everyday, guaranteed.

If you have been reading this blog, feel free to drop me a line and say hello. It gets a little lonely when no one says hello. Good eats!

Art

2009-02-25T00:31:00.004+08:00

One of the things that I have wanted to do with the restaurant from the outset was to be a gallery for local budding artists. This idea was spawned while I was working in the U.S for a restaurant group that had a world class art collection in every restaurant they operated. They believed that displaying art across a wide variety of disciplines initiated a sense of contextuality in their restaurants. The works they chose would represent the location geographically or historically and thus add texture to the restaurant as a whole. My aim is similar, to showcase work from local artists across a variety of disciplines to not only enhance the restaurant aesthetic but to offer them a public space that will hopefully engage our guests and expand the exposure of the artists.

Our first artist is Photographer Felix Hug who is based in Singapore and shoots around Asia focusing on the unique landscapes, people and cultures that may escape the normal eye. His work is truly extraordinary with great depth and clarity. He is currently in the process of choosing his works for display, but I am confident that his work will speak for itself. Check out his site to see some of his past work. Cheers!

Grower Champagnes

2009-02-15T20:19:00.003+08:00

As many of you know wine is a big passion of mine. The holidays that my wife Erika and I take almost always revolve around some type of food and wine experience and my trips to Australia's wine country in the last few years have been proof that when you get to meet the passionate people behind the scenes you have an even greater appreciation for the wine but more importantly you get to start a relationship.

I have been doing a lot of tasting recently for our list and am starting to whittle down my selections for the few spots I have for our first list. One tasting in particular was rather unexpected. I was to taste a few champagnes from growers who not only supply many of the major houses but set aside a small amount of their harvest for their own production. The term in the business nowadays is "grower champagnes" and up until now I have only tasted a few examples of these small production, high quality and extremely terroir driven gems.

That day I tasted from 3 grower/makers who are making extremely high quality bottlings. The first of which is Nicolas Maillart, from Montagne de Reims, who blew me away with his NV Brut "Platine" with hints of peach and toasted hazelnuts, a medium to long finish and beautiful compact bubbles that would stand up to any of the big houses. I have chosen this as our house champagne, and cannot tell you how excited I am to bring it to all of you. The good news is we are the only restaurant in Singapore to carry it by the glass!

The next producer was my personal favorite, Champagne De Sousa from Avize. This champagne had beautiful minerality with floral undertones and a super long finish that was balanced and pointed. No doubt that this champagne is made from the best grapes and by a winemaker who is a perfectionist. I have also decided to keep this on our list by the bottle because I appreciate its stylistic purity and also because De Sousa is a firm believer and practitioner in organic agriculture.

The final pour came from a very small producer who has garnered some international fame of late for his very high quality and extremely well made champagnes. Diebolt-Vallois from cramant makes minuscule amounts but that doesn't mean that each isn't made to exacting standards. The blanc de blans from his Cuvee Prestige brought to mind the term "greyhound" for its lean and muscular body and long finish. This is a wine of great pedigree with balance and just the right amount of acidity to amplify the soft subtle flavors of lemon and cream. This too made the cut and will grace the list.

I am truly excited to be able to carry wines from theses three great producers. I am sure you will agree once you have a taste, that these champagnes can hang any day with the big guys. This selection and tasting process is another example of our tireless work to bring only the best to table. Cheers!

Design

2009-02-10T22:04:00.006+08:00

Design has always been an amateur interest of mine. When I was in university I took a class in Hotel and Restaurant Design and had a chance to really explore the nitty gritty and sometimes tedious work that goes into designing a space. That experience has helped a lot in conceptualizing the design of Spruce. Danny and I wanted something casual, sophisticated but at the same time a sense that the restaurant wasn't cookie cutter or designed like a shoe-box by which I mean, conventional. This has lead us to sourcing vintage lighting fixtures, one of kind hand made furniture and a really great collaboration with local artists to display their work. All of this was so the restaurant would have a soul with a real story to tell and also because we are concerned with every detail, making sure that every part of the restaurant has the feeling of comfort.

Some of the items we chose are really special like the 3.9 meter one piece acacia wood table that will grace our private dining room and become the centerpiece of our wine dinner series that will unveil in the middle of the year.

Our interior design references mid-century modern masters, such as Charles and Ray Eames who are quite possibly the most famous chair designers in history as well renowned lighting designers Achille and Pier Castiglioni. These are just two of our inspirations, but expect a clean, minimalistic space with well thought out features and use of as many natural products and textures as possible.

Another great feature of the space is the climate controlled Cheese and Wine Cave that we had built from the existing structure. It features exposed brick walls, wide timber flooring and a great space for storing and ageing our selection of wines and cheeses. You will definitely see me in here a lot preparing your cheese plates and assisting in selecting great bottles to make your experience with us truly memorable. Till next time. Cheers and good eating!!

Herb Garden and Veggie Patch

2009-02-02T23:54:00.003+08:00

I am very excited to announce that Spruce will have an onsite vegetable and herb garden. When we were first looking at the space we noticed we had the opportunity to do something special and unique. Many of you know my devotion to growing and sourcing great products from around the world, but as we hear everyday on the news, global climate change is upon us. With this in mind we find it opportune to look at fulfilling not only our desire to help the planet but also our desire to put incredibly tasty food on your plates.

Our goal is being supported by Grace Cup, a malaysian purveyor of great vegetables and produce that has been supporting me from the beginning. They also happen to be the growers of my tomatoes that so many of you love. In any event our relationship has spawned us to develop the Spruce Learning Garden. Here, everyone will have the opportunity to see how mother nature takes care of us. We hope to introduce seed sowing days for children, so that they can see how vegetables grow, from watering the first seed to harvesting and finally eating what they have worked so hard to grow. Of course we will be using the garden to grow great veg and herbs for the restaurant as well and should become a great learning centre for me and my cooks.

The concept of the garden is to understand where our food comes from. Many people in todays world don't know how the most common of fruits and vegetables are grown. As with most things, bringing it to reality is often more challenging than it seems. I am sure we will have our ups and downs and many days of frustration. But, it will all be worth it when I go down in the morning and pick the days produce right from the ground. I can't wait!

Coffee and Tea

2009-01-26T13:40:00.008+08:00

Not too many people know this but I met my wife, Erika, while working at a coffee shop when I was just 15. Of course it took us almost 7 years before we started dating but little did I know that she was the one. However, looking back I can see why I was attracted to her. She is a bit competitive and when we were working the same shifts she would always challenge me to sell more than her, make coffees faster than her or to simply make better coffee than her. Her competitiveness actually pushed me to learn more about coffee and the making process. I have built upon that knowledge as I have had more experience with coffee over time and can say that I am a coffee nut no doubt.

I won't bore you with the details of what makes coffee great but it basically comes down to three things: Freshness of the Beans, Blend of the Beans and the Technique of the Barrista.

Most restaurants and coffee shops can handle the first two rather easily, by sourcing great suppliers and coffees as we have done with what will be our house coffee, Giancarlo from Melbourne, Australia.

The last however proves to be the most difficult. Training someone to understand the nuances of great coffee can be daunting, but not impossible. First, they must be passionate about coffee and love to drink it themselves immersing themselves in the history,

geography and techniques that make great coffee great. Second they must be detail oriented and perfectionists so that each coffee is made to exacting standards. All of this is not easy to find, so we are currently searching for a great Barrista to cure your morning and afternoon coffee fixes.

Coffee often overshadows Tea and while metaphorically this may be true, from a flavor standpoint Tea often trumps its bigger brother. Tea in so many ways is about nuance and subtlety. Teas can often be beguiling in there many aromas depending on the blending, flavorings and quality of ingredients. In many ways tea blending is like making a sauce in the kitchen, trying to layer flavors so that it tastes full of dimension. We have chosen a tea that I think has all the characteristics of great blending in a variety of different styles and flavors, TeaDrop.

The Spot

2009-01-19T23:20:00.004+08:00

Here are a few photos of the buildings we will be taking over. It's rough for sure, but behind this crude shell I see great possibility. There are two seperate houses on the property and each will be converted into use for the restaurant. The first will be used as the main ding room with extended patio for outdoor dining, while the second house will support our kitchen and beautiful private dining room along with some offices and staff quarters.

The picture you see of the leaf strewn terrace will be transformed into a relaxing lounge for morning coffees and after work tipples. What you don't see is that we have a fair piece of land that will be home to one of my most exciting projects yet. Of course, I need to build up the suspense a little, so I'll wait for a later post to discuss in detail. In any event the work is coming along at a fast pace and much of the details you see here have already been re-worked, demolished or left alone. Have a look, and for those who are following along in Singapore, can anyone guess as to the location?

The Logo

2009-01-16T23:06:00.008+08:00

Have you ever had to design a company logo? I must say, it is not so easy as one may think. First, is the question of color or no color, then choosing a font which can lead you to near paranoia, looking at font after font for minute differences and just the right look. Then there is the look, should you have objects, pictures or none at all. Should the logo be big or small, should it have a background or not? Anyway, we have finally settled on a logo that I think is well worth the effort, and in fact was chosen after we had already chosen another one at the 11th hour. It is minimal without being too austere and most of all it is in tune with our concept of simple, straightforward food. It also allows us to use the logo in many different ways if we so decide to expand in the future and that flexibility is something we didn't have with previous logos. It also allows us to have an identity now, one that communicates the essence of Spruce in print. I would love to hear your feedback and thoughts. This whole process has been incredibly rewarding thus far, and I can only imagine that each step will bring with it new challenges. All the best and happy eating.

Opening a Restaurant

2009-01-04T22:49:00.002+08:00

I thought it might be kind of fun to talk about all the things that go into opening a restaurant. It is one of the most rewarding and challenging experiences someone in the business can and should do. It tests your ability to communicate, organize, conceptualize, reason, compromise and visualize among a slew of others. Everything you take for granted normally has to be decided on. What type of toilet paper, the color and type of font for the logo, the location of the trash, what insurance to buy for the staff, to have fans or air-con, dim light or bright light, cans or bottled beer, bacon or no bacon etc. The list is endless, but the process is something that I love and always find to be the most fun during any new project. I like to think of the finished space, the food my guests will be eating and the great times in the future I have an opportunity to share in and create.

For my new restaurant, spruce, my partner and I are constantly discussing the little things that will make your experience at the restaurant special. What has been most thrilling for me is to have a hand in designing the space from the beginning, developing the decor, style and atmosphere that will all culminate when our guests sit down to enjoy a meal. I will be putting up a few photos of the space shortly for everyone to see the transformation from thought to reality. Cheers!

spruce

2009-01-01T23:03:00.003+08:00

Wow, what a year!! This has definitely been a year of ups and downs and one I will soon not forget. First and foremost the most exciting thing that has happened to me in my entire life is the expecting of baby boy anytime now, which in itself is a life changing event. I look forward to many sleepless nights in the rocking chair telling him stories of how one day he will grow up to love bacon as much as is father. I think we should have him eating sushi by the time he is 2.

Anyway, this year also brought a little sadness as well. After three years on the stove at WineGarage I left to pursue "other opportunities", and I want to thank all of those who were guests, staff and friends for all your support, it was not an easy decision. But, alas I have good news. Coming early this year will be, spruce, a casual breakfast, lunch and dinner spot situated in two restored terrace houses with the most beautiful open air patio I have seen in Singapore just off Tanglin Road. Think freshly baked breads and pastries in the morning with artisan coffee and the morning paper. Lunch will transform into a casual cafe with beautiful fresh salads, sandwiches, soups and handcrafted pasta. By night, relax on the patio with a glass of wine, seasonal cocktail or house aperitif, all while enjoying uncomplicated, simple rustic fare that you have come to know me for. It will be my new home and hopefully yours too. I will have plenty of details to follow in the coming days and months. I can't wait to serve all of you again and finally have a spot to call my own.

Farewell

2008-11-08T23:05:00.002+08:00

Many of you may already know, and for those who don't, I apologize for not saying goodbye sooner. I have left WineGarage and will be moving on to new challenges and opportunities. It is bittersweet in many ways. The first of which is leaving behind so many great people, both guests and staff who have made my time here 3 of the best years I could have asked for.

While this blog was foremost a tool for reporting on the happenings within the restaurant it also served as a link to communicate with so many of you on a more personal level. Those of you who wrote comments, sent emails and inquired about the blog at the restaurant, I thank you for taking time out of your day to share your thoughts.

I will be the first to admit that there were times when things got rough, when the days were long and the progress slow. But, I always knew that a great restaurant was possible. I will say, that without doubt, my staff are some of the most committed, talented and hardworking people I have ever had the pleasure to stand alongside. They are the ones who believed in the goal and partnered with me in bringing to light my vision of what a restaurant should be.

I wish all of you the best and please feel free to check in on the blog as I will be continuing to update it. Thanks again and take care.

Two Things I Can't Live Without

2008-07-09T17:56:00.006+08:00

There are two pieces of equipment that have become so integral to my cooking that without them I would be lost. The first is the Paco Jet. An ultra-revolutionary, high speed, air injecting, "pacotizing" wonder, which basically takes anything that has been frozen solid, shaves it superfine while simultaneously injecting air making it super light and creamy. It has been around for a while now but ask any chef and they will tell you this thing is built like bulldozer. It almost never has to be repaired, has very minimal maintenance and more than makes up for it's cost, which if your wondering can set you back a cool 6K. Of course Ice creams and sorbets are the first order of business but I use it for more unconventional purposes as well making beautiful silken puree's of vegetables, flavored olive oils and infusions of all types. I love this thing so much I once wrote an entire dissertation while in university about the viability and cost-effectiveness of the Paco Jet against traditional Ice Cream Machines. I got an A.

Second, is the Vacuum pack machine, which as the name implies, vacuums air from the inside of plastic bags and seals food in an almost oxygen free environment. While that sounds special the real advantage is that I take those vacuum sealed foods and apply the "sous vide" method of cooking which basically means that I cook the food while in the bag at various temperatures depending on the product inside. This helps in achieving consistent results as well as increased flavors because volatile aromas do not have a chance to escape during the cooking process leaving a result that most times is far better than conventional methods. We use this process in about 40% of the cooking we do at the restaurant in everything from meats to vegetables.

I will be posting more tidbits from life in the kitchen so if you have any questions let me know and I will do my best to answer all that I can. Cheers!!

Teaser

2008-07-04T22:52:00.002+08:00

I'm Back

2008-07-02T17:37:00.002+08:00

Wow, I think this blogging thing is probably one of the most difficult things to keep up with. It's like going to the gym, at first you are really motivated and excited and then as you get into it you take a day off to rest. One day of rest leads to two and then before you know it, you have been out for a month. In this case like 4 months.

In any event there is always room for reconciliation, an opportunity to get back in the game. So here I write with hopes of turning this thing around. First, some news from the Garage. We will be starting a new promotion called "Fizz and Chips". Pardon the play on words but as you may have guessed we will be featuring Fish and Chips with Champagne and Sparkling wine on Wednesday evenings. In response to our ever popular Burgers and Bottles promotion on Tuesdays, this is a great segway to showcase my obsession recently with the humble fish fry. I have researched, tested and tasted my way through numerous incarnations of the perfect fish and chip and finally have found what I believe will be the standard bearer for all Fish and Chips in Singapore.

The batter is shatteringly crisp and grease less. The fish, pink snapper, flaky and moist. The Chips are hand cut, organic desiree potatoes cooked thrice with a secret method that produces a chip beyond reproach. Of course, we will make our own tartare sauce and provide you with the ubiquitous malt vinegar albeit from a clever serving device.

In my opinion the combination of sparkling wine and fish and chips may be one of the best pairings I have ever had the opportunity to taste. It is quite frankly a match made in heaven. Be it with a special bottle of Krug or a great bottle of Prosecco, the experience of drinking "Fizz" and eating "Chips" is undeniably cool .

The promotion will be running Wednesdays starting the 9th of July with $10 off any bottle of sparkling wine with the purchase of a Fish and Chip. So come down and have some fun. Till next time.....

The Creative Process

2008-05-02T13:34:00.002+08:00

Burger Bash

2008-02-23T13:06:00.000+08:00

I was recently scrolling through some of my favorite food sites and came upon an advertisement for an event in Shanghai called the "Burger Grill Off", where local restaurants vie for a chance at Burger Stardom. Burgers were also the headline act the recent South Beach Food and Wine Festival where the famous "Shack Burger" from Danny Meyer's Shake Shack was overthrown by the "Schlow Burger" from Chef Micheal Schlow of Boston restaurant, Radius. It got me thinking that perhaps Singapore needs an event like this. I can picture it now, Clarke Quay roped off down the river with booths of restaurants turning out thier signature Burger, capped off by the 1st Annual "Battle of the Burg's", to see who can stuff there face with the most burgers in 5 minutes, sure to attract the world's top extreme eaters. It has the potential for greatness, don't you think? The public get's to vote for it's favorite and the winner takes home bragging rights as well as the trophy, a giant plastic Burger Bun that says "Uniquely Singapore" all over it.
Ok, its a little far fetched but I think it has a chance, we just need a bunch of Burger fanatics to protest, in groups less than three of course, at city hall for the government to sponsor such an event. I know I'll be there, will you? Later.

Favorite Restaurants

2008-02-08T17:41:00.002+08:00

People often ask me about my favorite restaurants back in the states. I started to think and came up with a few that without question are some of the best places in the world to eat.

The first and one of the only places that I would fly 20 hours just to have dinner is Pizzeria Bianco in Phoenix, AZ. It is to me the quintessential restaurant. Small, welcoming, unpretentious and most of all honest. The menu is sparse with only a few salads and just a handful of Pizzas but the quality is incomparable. The chef, Chris Bianco, tames the wood fired oven every night, no matter what. It is the sort of place everyone talks about, but few seldom understand. Chris is a pizza maniac, he doesn't simply undertsand the intricasies of a great pizza, he has devoted his whole life to the perfection of it. Every detail makes a difference, from the type of wood used in the oven, to the homemade mozzarella pulled every day. His dough is an extension of his hands and his soul. Rarely do you encounter a restaurant with this singular focus. I will be visiting Phoenix in April when I take some time away to see my family and you can bet that I will get my pizza fix here.

Another place that I really enjoy is Casa Mono in NYC, this tiny shoebox near Gramercy turns out some of the finest spanish influenced food I have ever had the pleasure of eating. It also happens to be co-owned by Mario Batali, a chef who I greatly admire and respect. In fact all of his restaurants have made me happy and serve simple unpretentious food.

For fine dining, I must say that the French Laundry was unforgettable and something everyone should experience at least once. While I don't usually dine like this, I do try and fit in one over the top meal a year and this has been the finest to date. Enough has been said about Thomas Keller, but bottom line, he deserves all the praise.

Till next time....

Lunch Time!!!!

2008-01-25T14:47:00.000+08:00

It is with great anticipation that I announce the launch of Lunch at WG starting on February 18, 2008. It is a significant step for us and one many of you have been asking for. The menu reflects my continuing support of organic produce as well as supporting our own farming project in Malaysia. It features my take on classic salads and sandwiches as well as focusing on or handcrafted pasta and freshly made side dishes. You can come for a power lunch or laze your day away over looking the river. Meet up with friends or catch up with co-workers. The menu has something for everyone, including our signature WG "Burger". Here are a few pics to get you salivating. We will also be featuring a few new brews from Brewmaster Scott Robertson.

Eating Humble Pie

2008-01-15T16:19:00.000+08:00

This post is a little different than the rest and frankly I am not proud of it. But, sometimes we have to eat a little humble pie and admit we made a mistake. I want to relay an incident that happened on Saturday night.

A couple sat down at around 11:00pm for what was supposed to be a nice leisurely drink to finish the evening I presume. All was well until they placed their order for a beautiful bottle of Chassagne-Montrachet. Our server took the order and proceeded to arrange the bottle, which he could not find. He asked a manager to help while he set the glasses and readied the ice bucket. The manager still could not find the wine, almost 7 minutes had elapsed at this point. He engages another staff member to help. The guests are getting impatient and rightfully so. 10 minutes and still no wine. The manager decides to go to the table to apologize and ask if he can arrange a different bottle as the first one is M.I.A, but the guests decided they had enough and walked out. I don't blame them. We failed. We had a chance to wow them with a great bottle of wine, but we couldn't locate it. We had a chance to turn the situation around but we didn't get to table in time before they left. We had a chance to provide great service but we failed to produce what they ordered. We simply had too many chances.

I can truthfully say this is the first time in a very, very, very long time that this has happened. But, it will serve as a great lesson to us that when we make a mistake we need to deal with it promptly. In hindsight, we should have sent the manager over with Complimentary Champagne at the 7 minute mark, so that at least they knew we were trying to fix our mistake. Even someone going over and letting them know the situation would have been better then to just let them sit there waiting. A bunch of little decisions led to one very bad result. I don't know who the couple was but I want to apologize and invite them back to enjoy that bottle, yes we found it, finally. I know all of us here at WG have learned something from this situation and take it very personally.

These are the situations that can change the course of a restaurants fate. When people have bad experiences they talk about it, and their story influences others and so on and so forth. In any event, we have taken the necessary actions to alleviate the same mistake in the future and I am confident that this situation will never happen again. Till next time...

New Year, New Happenings

2008-01-04T12:34:00.000+08:00

Ok, I know, I have been neglecting this little corner of space for sometime now. But, I am back, ready to fill this void with news, observations, happenings and content that will hopefully engage and inspire those of you who find the ramblings of a chef interesting.

First things first though, many thanks to all of our loyal guests over the last year who have supported the restaurant. You are the reason that we are so successful. Furthermore, many thanks to those of you who visited the restaurant for the first time, with every new guest we see an opportunity to build a relationship and a connection to the restaurant. We hope to see you again, and don't be afraid to say hello.

On to some news, where I am happy to share that WineGarage will be adding a new series of events celebrating wine and food. I have composed a list of wine dinners that will be held on a chosen Wednesday each month. Some will highlight producers known the world over; while others will uncover wines you may never have had the chance to explore. The object is simple, to enjoy wine and food with the conviviality of friends and fellow enthusiasts. Take a look at the preliminary list of dinners below to see if any are of interest. They are guaranteed to be fun, informative and spontaneous.

January
Great Wines of America.

February
Garagiste Wines.

March
The Amazing Rhone.

April
Australia’s Best.

May
Who knew? Great Wines from Spain.

June
Wines you’ve never heard of, but will remember forever.

July
Summer in France, C’est la Vie.

August
Memories of Italy, Obscure Varietals, Unlimited Potential.

September
They make wine there? South Africa, Argentina and Beyond.

October
The Big Boy’s, France still leads the pack.

November
Burgundy, be careful be very very careful.

December
The ultimate Celebration, Champagne.

Our first dinner is a salute to Great American Wines on Wednesday the 30th of January. Wines will be featured from the likes of Skewis, Grace Family and La Sirena. A full menu with pairings will be posted soon, so keep an eye out.

On other fronts, this year will once again highlight our continuing relationship with our farming partners in Malaysia to bring you great produce, most notably our beautiful Tomatoes. With the response that we received last year, there is no doubt that a few were converted into tomato heads. There really is nothing like field grown, super ripe tomatoes, period.

Perhaps the biggest news I have for you is that WineGarage will be serving Lunch starting from February 18, 2008. A collection of super salads, inspired sandwiches and hand crafted pastas will make there way to the menu. The lunch menu will highlight some great organic products as well as offer freshly squeezed juices, delicious side items like our soon to be famous Meatball Sliders and Deviled Eggs with Jumbo Lump Crab. I will be posting some shots of the new menu over the next month to tempt you.

Well, I think that's enough for now. Drop me a line, swing by or say hello when your in. Take care and good eating.

Tomatoes are Here!!!!!

2007-10-09T17:43:00.000+08:00

I can't tell you how excited I am to finally have our first major crop of tomatoes from our farm in the highlands of Malaysia. We are currently featuring 5 different tomatoes, all unique in taste, texture and color. They are explosive and easily some of the best tomatoes I have ever had. We are using them to make a vibrant gazpacho laced with lime juice and avocado and a salad featuring all 5 types with beautiful buffalo milk mozzarella from Italy. There is also a beautiful risotto made with the tomato water and flecks of the rainbow hued flesh. A rustic pasta is made from our hosemade fennel Sausage and fresh tomato sauce, offset by little fava beans and gran padano cheese. T

In only a few days since we have had the tomatoes there has been an overwhelming response. Many have never before seen tomatoes of a different color or can imagine one that is almost a kg in size. Come down, have a taste and decide for yourself. Trust me it's worth it.

Steak: Do you really know what your eating?

2007-09-18T11:20:00.001+08:00

I have been on a steak kick lately. Obsessed with everything that makes a great steak great. I came across an article on asiaone.com.sg titled "Know Your Steak". While the article had good intentions, the author failed to mention a few key points as well as make a few false statements.

First, on the topic of ageing beef. Beef can either be "dry" aged or "wet" aged. When an animal is butchered it benefits from hanging in a cold room for up to a month or more. This process known as dry ageing, tenderizes the meat, breaking down protein strands and enhancing texture and flavor. Moisture loss is also a factor in defining the beefy flavor which may result in the cut losing up to 40% of its original weight thus increasing the price dramaticly. This method is rarely used in the commercial and retail environments anymore. Partly because of the cost to produce and secondly, because dry ageing really only benefits the best animals graded USDA prime and choice in America.

The term "aged" can also be applied to wet aged beef which is a process of sealing the meat in a vacuum bag, thus eliminating all air. The same enzymatic process occurs during this ageing as well, tenderizing the meat, flavor however is not improved because there is no moisture lost in the process. This is how most steaks are aged, even the ones at Morton's. Famous steak houses like Peter Lugar's in New York, PrimeHouse in Chicago and Berns's in Tampa still dry age thier meat the old fashioned way.

The second misnomer I would like to dispel is that of the "searing" process. The author says that searing a steak will lock in the moisture of the meat which is false. Searing promotes what is called the "Maillard Reaction" or in laymans terms, the beautiful crust, which is basically enhancing the flavor on the surface of the meat by browning all those good bits.

We have experimented recently with dry ageing here at the restaurant and have had very favorable results. In fact I still have a few dry aged steaks left for anyone reading who wants a taste before they all disappear. The ageing produced a highly nuanced piece of beef with great tenderness and texture. We will be bringing you more dry aged meat in the coming weeks and months and hope to start the first meat dry ageing program in Singapore.

If you would like to know more about the subject of meat, please go and pick up "The River Cottage Meat Book" by Hugh Fearnley Whittingstall. It is without question the quitessential text on all things bovine. Till next time.

Cocktail Craftsmanship

2007-08-18T16:39:00.000+08:00

After a long night at the restaurant I sometimes crave a well made cocktail. Wether it is a simple superchilled Dirty Martini or a beautifully balanced Negroni, I am always searching for perfection. Most recently on my trip to New York, I had the pleasure of being taken too a great a little bar called The East Side Company, where they expertly mix your drink with the same precision and passion that you see at some of the top restaurants. What struck me was that you don't order a cocktail by name, but rather by the base. Meaning vodka, gin, whiskey, etc. They then concoct a unique cocktail based on your preferences. It was remarkable. Think underground prohibition era speakeasy with a secret door and super secrecy. Definitely cool. So I started thinking, what if we could come up with a few "perfect" cocktails to begin or end your evening here at the restaurant. With that in mind I came back with a vision of creating cocktails that are balanced, beautiful and delicious. My inspiration was America, and the classic cocktails of years gone by. So now in the works are modern takes on the Mint Julep, Tom Collins, The Martini and a few others. I hope to offer these cocktails as an extension of our beverage program, to make your meal more memorable and to enjoy the craftsmanship of a properly made drink. Stay Tuned.

Tales From a Trip to Gluttony

2007-08-03T11:41:00.000+08:00

For me a great vacation usually means a good 4-5kg swing in the wrong direction. I dutifully eat as little as I can prior to departure, knowing that upon arrival the gorging will begin. It is not the kind of gorging where I deliberately stuff my face with fried foods of mysterious origin, but a calculated if not perverse eating expedition that is carefully choreographed. I throw in little stops for snacks, late night places for the midnight munchies and everything in between.

This time in New York was special. For one, I was reunited with my wife after three weeks of seperation, not because of differences, but because I had to work and she started her vacation early. Second, because in my three days I did not put one bad thing in my mouth. The highlights are numerous. The hamachi and cured country hams at Momofuku, a pseudo japanese burrito joint with a penchant for everything porcine. The Amadai and Eel/Foie Gras Terrine at Atelier Robuchon, and the most gorgeous Ricotta Cavatelli and Succulent Pork Chop at The Little Owl. Forgive me for not mentioning sooner the insane little cheese and wine bar Cassellula that among other things, hit the spot one late night with an outrageous Pig's Ass Sandwich. Need I say more.

On the homefront, mom whipped up her usual World's best lobster roll on a toasted hot dog bun with what seemed like endless boulders of the glorious crustacean. I ate my yearly allowance and took a nap. Then my grandfather in a historic cook-off with his Chef grandson, kicked my ass with his always crowd pleasing and dare I say the best meatballs I have ever consumed. I was no match for the king. A surprising pit-stop on I-84, the highway connecting Connecticut to New York, for those who were wondering, offered up the best pastrami reuben I have had in a great while. Think gloriously butter toasted rye bread, oozing swiss cheese and glistening slices of the good stuff all lubricated with the traditional russian dressing. All was well in the world.

On the last leg of our trip that included a brief day and a half stop-over in Stockholm, we had the tremendous luck of discovering Restaurant Mathias Dahlgren, which definitely proved Michelin worthy, despite it's apparently two month infancy. One of our favorite dishes were the strawberries at the end of the meal that were served simply with Vanilla Ice cream and Strawberry Meringue. Easily the best fruit I have tasted all year, and another tribute to the simple mantra of Quality speaks.

Ok, time to get back to work. Till next time......

The Italian Way

2007-07-12T16:31:00.000+08:00

Last night I headed over to Oso Restaurant for a glass of wine and some cheese. I always enjoy the humble hospitality of Stephane and Diego, who so gracefully look after thier guests. It was over a glass of Nebbiolo and a beautiful cheese plate that I reminisced of my time spent in the upper half of the boot. Italians are by far the most hospitable and kind people I have ever met. They welcome each day with a sense of wonderment and a sincere appreciation for the act of eating and drinking. They relish the perfect slice of prosciutto, wait months for the first insanely ripe tomato to pull from the vine and wax poetic about wines made from thier obscure indigenous grapes. Quality always trumps quantity and from village to village the cooking is local and seasonal with variations abound. What always strikes me is the simplicity of the offerings and the feeling that at that very moment you are eating the best thing in the world. It is these memories that spur my quest to find or produce the best ingredients I can. As most of you know, the tomatoes are my first project, but I laso hope to bring many other locally grown vegetables and fruit to the table soon.

I head off to New York and Boston next week for my Holiday and hope to file in when I get a few spare moments from the endless barage of eating and drinking. I will certainly remember that eating well is a matter of simplicity and sometimes living life to the fullest means living life one day at a time just like in Italy.

Just Smile and Say Goodbye

2007-07-03T13:31:00.001+08:00

The other day I asked my staff what the difference between service and hospitality was. A few replied with textbook accuracy, others were bewildered and a few more started to really think. I had recently been to an outpost of Ya Kun Kaya Toast for a cup of coffee and some kaya and that's when the wheels started to turn. The cashier was curt, failing to display any sort of smile or warmth. I proceeded with the payment, ate my toast and left. The next day without much thought, I popped in to Starbucks for a quick coffee and a read of the paper. As soon as I entered I was greeted with a glowing smile and infectous energy. I ordered, had a brief conversation and enjoyed my quiet morning. When I left they said, "goodbye and see you again", and so I pondered, two coffees: two different experiences.

The truth is, that service is the technical ability to deliver a product, think car mechanic or massage therapist. They are providing a service and in turn delivering you a result. Hospitality is the innate ability to generate memories and experiences from someone. Intangible elements such as the greeting, the farewell and the friendly smile all play a part in defining this form of generosity. It cannot be contrived, manipulated or faked. In many ways hospitality is the texture of an experience, something that is warm, comforting and genuine. It could be the use of your name as you arrive or the thoughtfullness of the staff as they recall your preferences and look after you as though you were invited to thier home. It is the way you are spoken too, the subtle gestures and the care exuded by the individual.

In Singapore, the problem lies not with the training of technical service standards but with the ability to foster hospitality among the staff. A great service experience in a restaurant almost always reflects the "mood" of the staff and the environment in which they create. They have to be active particpants in the experience. There are many who believe that great service across the board in Singapore is impossible and should never be expected unless your paying for it at the highest levels. But the truth of the matter is, it doesn't cost anything to have staff smile and say goodbye. Till next time....

Brrrrr.....unch

2007-06-08T17:29:00.000+08:00

I much prefer the Brr…than the unch in Brunch, but to satiate all appetites, we will be inaugurating our big weekend feast starting 23rd of June. Everyone always asks me what I like to cook and I always reply, breakfast. I’m sorry if this offends people, but, I love the smell of bacon in the morning, and have been woken many a times from a deep slumber from it’s glorious scent, not to mention the lingering aromas of fresh brewed coffee and french toast hot off the griddle. I have vowed with our brunch to stick to the basics and cook from the heart. As a treat to the millions of readers of this blog I thought I would pass along a little eye candy to get you dreaming. I won’t fill you in on the exact details of each dish, but as the saying goes "a picture is worth a thousand words."

When you think of breakfast with us, I want you to invision, house cured bacon, freshly squeezed juices and rustic pancakes. A place where you can come at the end of a long week and relax, read the paper, catch up with friends, have a few coffees and tuck into some good food.
If you’re a bit more ambitious you can always start the morning with a bottle of bubbly or a fiery bloody mary. It’s up too you. We will also have the almost world famous "Garage" Burger and our fresh Oysters available for your enjoyment. I look forward to seeing all of you!! Here are a few pics to keep you salivating.

Slow Food = Slow Results

2007-06-08T13:48:00.000+08:00

There was a recent article posted on the Slowfood website in Singapore that caught my attention. Mainly because Slow Food is an organization I have flirted with off and on for about 5 years now. Each time I was uprooted and moved to a new city in the states, I would find the local convivium and see what they were up too. Some were focused on sustaining dying breeds of pigs others on preserving the legacy of heirloom vegetables while many more were formal and proper and participated in luncheons and dinners that supported slow food producers.

What I learned most about Slow Food, and contradictory to the article had nothing to do with the physical act of eating slow, but rather a sincere desire to keep traditions alive and sustaining our environment for years to come. It was a holistic approach to eating, in that what you eat is as important as how you came to eat it.

With that being said I started to ponder my philosophy here at the restaurant and questioning the methods and ways in which we end up with a final dish. Many of you know that our food here is rather minimalist, meaning that we showcase a few great ingredients on a plate with minimal fuss. In this pursuit, I am often at odds, mostly because of the source of my products. Do I know who produces my pork? Is my Salmon really farmed the way it says on their website? Is my produce grown in a manner that is sustainable? The questions go on and on. Being on an Island as glorious as it might sound does have its drawbacks. But, over the last year and half I have been able to assess the market and find those that are truly passionate about bringing in great ingredients even if they are at greater prices. I know in the long run, that for us to prosper as a restaurant we have to make a pledge to only buy and source the best, no matter the cost. Once Singapore becomes a major player on the international food scene, more and more great products will come our way.

Our farming project is still in the works and has taken some time to get up to speed, but the relationships we have built and are forging will be of great value in the years to come. I see a renewed interest in organic farming and a strong sense that to compete in the world markets, changes have to be made to the way they are growing vegetables in the highlands. Much of the interest in our project has come from you, our guests, who are as excited as we are to bring you nothing but the finest produce in South East Asia.

The moral of this whole rant, is that everything takes time to do it right. We must wait for the tomatoes to fully ripen to pick, take time to forge relationships with people who are passionate about what they produce and think about what goes onto a plate.

Pork-A-Nosis

2007-05-19T14:14:00.000+08:00

I get irritated when journalists print stupid information, especially when it's about pork. I was reading reviews of restaurants on asiaone.com and came across a review of a restaurant called Perle Noir. The reviewer who happens to be a blogger at http://ieatishootipost.blogspot.com/, and also apparently happens to be a Doctor stated that “Since pork has to be taken well done (because pork harbors parasites like tapeworm which can also cause infestations in humans so it is important to cook it properly)” also failed to note that the chances of this actually happening are about a million to one.

The fear of trichinosis came about in age when people were poorly raising pigs in environments that were less that sanitary and in particular related to a diet of human waste and sewage. Nowadays pork is so fiercely controlled, not only in its breeding, but at all points of production. Furthermore, all that proscitutto you have eaten is in fact, raw pork. Of course it has been “cured” but essentially is no more of a risk than cooking a chop medium-rare. There are parts of the pig that do benefit from long cooking and slow braising like the shoulder and the glorious ribs. Even more beautiful is the belly, from which after gentle slow cooking nearly collapses on itself and the meat pulls away gently and with magnificent succulence.

This also brings me to another point. As chefs, we should all want to know where our pork comes from and how it is processed. As consumers you should ask your local butcher from whom he buys his pork. Some questions to ask include, Are the pigs allowed to roam or are they cooped like chickens? Is the pork processed with a brine, to increase the weight and substitute moisture for lean meat? Are the animals treated with hormones? On visual inspection, pork should be gloriously marbled and riddled with pearly white fat, and contrary to marketing claims, pork should be a shade of rose tinged toward red, not white or pearl. The pale, flaccid specimens we see at many supermarkets are the result of man’s intervention in the growth of what should be a natural process.

Pigs are one of the greatest animals on earth. In fact, pigs are one of the only animals that are completely edible from head to toe and have nourished people for centuries. Think prosciutto, bacon, ham, sausages, casings etc. If you want proof that Pork doesn’t have to be cooked well done, come down and try our chop. I guarantee you will wake up in the morning.

Marutama Ramen

2007-05-04T13:52:00.000+08:00

Some of you have asked me to post on some of the restaurants I like to eat at, so here it is. Marutama makes some sick ramen. Everytime I eat it I leave with a glorious smile and heinous garlic breath. If you sit at the counter be careful of the little bowl of fried garlic chips, wonderfully toasty and crisp that you can add at will to make the chicken based broth utterly mind blowing. The little place tucked into a corner in Central Mall is always packed at lunch, so go early or late if you don't want to wait. I always get the Marutama Ramen with Tasty Egg and Char Siu. A perfect lunch! Happy Eating.

People do read this blog

2007-05-02T16:21:00.000+08:00

Contrary to popular belief, I actually met a couple at the restaurant who reads this blog. Who knew? While the few comments I have received have been from co-workers and family, it was refreshing to learn that perfect strangers, up till yesterday that is, occasionally dropped in to see what was on my mind. Interesting. Although, that is the point of a blog, isn’t it?

Well, I am back this week with a few words about service. What is it about great service? It can be something as small as a friendly smile welcoming you to the restaurant for the first time or a much appreciated glass of complimentary champagne to welcome you back for the tenth. Truth be told, quantifying service is rather difficult, it is the intangibles, the details and ultimately the feeling you get after you leave the restaurant that really makes the difference.

I will always remember the reception I got when I ducked into a wine shop on a cold and rainy afternoon in the small town of East Lansing, Michigan. The gentleman at the counter greeted me with a smile offered a towel to dry my head and face and proceeded to pour me a steaming cup of coffee. We talked at length about wine and food, his passion radiating with every word. Truth be told, I did not buy one bottle that day, but subsequently became my shop of choice during my “wine education” days at university. I always felt like I was going to visit a friend who just happened to know a lot about wine. I was a customer for life.

With every good service experience there seems to always be two or three bad ones not far behind. But, what I have learned that matters most is not necessarily the action but the reaction of the individual or business that matters most. One can simply shrug their shoulders and pretend that nothing happened or admit that they did not deliver on said promise and turn the situation around. Most of the time people understand and appreciate being looked after especially after something or someone has spoiled their experience. Human beings realize that things happen, and all they want is a sincere apology or acknowledgement of the situation. Honesty always trumps incompetence.

I would really like to hear feedback from all of you. Do you have a story about a great service experience, or one that simply made you furious?
Please tell. Till next time….

Eating Australia

2007-04-19T17:38:00.000+08:00

I know, it’s been a while. Many of you who know me personally can attest to my notoriously lackluster record of keeping in touch. In any event I have vowed to get back on track, to post more often and aim at the heart of this blog, to communicate with all of you.

Part of my lapse, and by no means an excuse was my recent trip to Australia. Ten days of nothing but great wine, relaxation, inspiring food and some of the nicest people I have ever met. I won’t bore you with all the details but I will recommend a few spots that are worthy of your pilgrimage in and around Victoria.

First, the Yarra Valley, home to many great wine producers and some really great eats. If your ever heading up there, stay at the Healesville Hotel, right on the main drag in the center of town for some stylish accommodations and some seriously good grub. Eat in the tavern for a casual Aussie style dinner. We split a whole bunch of plates and to recommend one would be pointless. Everything is seasonal and written on the blackboard and from my experience you can’t go wrong. So cozy up to a VB or one of Yarra’s finest reds and enjoy the night by the fireplace.

As you travel south you will hit what is arguably the best Pinot producing area in Australia, the Mornington Peninsula. We had the good fortune of being in the right place at the right time with a tour and special Tasting from the man himself at Moorooduc Estate. Richard makes some killer Chardonnays and Pinots, all using wild yeasts. Pretty impressive seeing he is a doctor by day. Great stuff. While your there stop by Ten Minutes by Tractor winery, who make some pretty good vino, but also have a top notch restaurant worth a detour. The dining room seemingly hangs over the vineyard where we enjoyed a beautiful antipasto plate and great artisan bread.

Down and around to the Great Ocean Road, you will run into a little place called “A la Grecque”. Apparently transplants from Melbourne, this greek family knows how to cook. On a damp and rainy afternoon we tucked into a stew of chickpeas and chorizo sausage that would make you wish it was damp and rainy all the time. Next up was a superb Bruschetta of Pecorino Pecato and fall pears perched upon toasted bread with a walnut pesto that was so gorgeous I declared it the best dish of our trip.

On to Melbourne, restaurant capital of Oz. Unfortunately, we hit Melbourne during Easter weekend which meant lots of places where closed, but fortunately we found a few that were definitely worth mentioning. First, the European, a classy all day café with superb coffee, attentive service and classy European fare. Have breakfast, lunch or dinner, it doesn’t matter, it will all be good, maybe not memorable but a great place to relax and watch the time go by. Next up Bar Lourinha, a hip little tapas joint with perhaps the best cocktail I have ever consumed. Get it, its called the “townbike” or something like that. Ridiculously good, flavored with pomegranate juice, rose water, prosecco and Frangelico it is not to be missed. The food is also notable, smoky eggplant with crème fraiche was reminiscent of red meat and the kingfish crudo scented with lemon and thyme was insanely fresh and cut perfectly. Little nuggets of chorizo in apple cider braised onions were beautiful. All in all a great trip. Holidays around great food and drink are something I always cherish. Till next time…

The Power of a Food Critic Part 2

2007-03-01T15:04:00.000+08:00

There is one thing that is certain in New York, the only review that counts, is the one by the NYT. Lauded with past critics such as Mimi Sheraton and Ruth Reichl, the NYT has always had a firm grasp on the New York dining scene. As a chef I always find reviews of other restaurants insightful, not only as a measuring stick for my own restaurant but as a sort of compass for what is happening at restaurants no matter their location. In any event the review of the Kobe Club and its subsequent zero star rating have started to make me think of the way restaurants are reviewed in Singapore.

Having been here for a year I have yet to read a review that really tackles the guts of a restaurant and offers a critique that is fair and just. Most of the reviews, including the ones of my restaurant are almost always announced, meaning the reviewer comes in for a meal with me knowing, making for a highly contrived experience. Restaurant critics for highly lauded publications in the States and Europe visit restaurants anonymously, many in disguise and multiple times to paint an accurate picture of what the restaurant is really like. They speak about the food, the wine, the décor, service, the phone greeting and numerous other topics that deliver a view of the holistic experience of dining out. As a chef I welcome the thoughts of those critics who evaluate the experience, rather than simply write an essay on what I fed them at a food tasting.

The Straits Times is Singapore’s NYT and on Sunday the restaurant review is always the first page I flip too. Wong Ah Yoke, the Straits Times restaurant critic, offers his thoughts on the many restaurants in Singapore, but all too often they fall short of a really digestive experience. What I mean is that, although he may visit anonymously, I fail to believe that he visits more than once to get an accurate picture of the restaurants consistency. His commentary on the food is often quite good, especially with local food, but his lack of breadth on western cuisine is noticeable. And, for all the reviews I have read, I have never heard him speak in depth about the experience as a whole. He rates service, décor and food separately, but rarely does he comment about the first two or give justification for there marks. A note, although Wong Ah Yoke has dined here before(we had his picture on the wall in the back) he has never reviewed us and if he does, I welcome his remarks.

I think every restaurant ought to be reviewed and here’s why. Mostly because reviews can serve to educate the consumer on that particular restaurant and pique interest, be it good or bad. Second, and in my opinion the most valid, is that honest reviews create a higher level of dining, thus the competition is greater, weeding out those restaurants who consistently under perform and making way for ambitious restaurants who have to exceed standards to succeed. Lastly, because restaurants experiences can be so subjective, reviews from multiple sources can often tie together all the points that either make a restaurant great or not. Till next time. Good Eating!

The Power of a Food Critic Part 1

2007-02-22T16:28:00.001+08:00

I try and stay as connected as I can to the New York Restaurant scene, in part because I have a tremendous interest in the food scene there and most importantly, a restaurant in New York has to be good, or it simply won’t last, so the competition is greater and by virtue, the product better. There are many resources I use, including my friends to stay hip and a growing number of websites including eGullet.com, eater.com and the restaurant section of New York Magazine. However, I always default to the New York Times for the latest reviews on the newest restaurants and more specifically to their food critic Frank Bruni for an always interesting read on the psychosis of a restaurants failing or burgeoning success.

One review recently peaked my interest, not so much for the content but for the reverberations of its findings. The restaurant was Kobe Club, a stylishly themed temple to the king of all cows. In it, Mr. Bruni deliberately critiques everything from the décor (2000 Razor sharp samurai swords hanging from the ceiling), to the oversized plate ware (leaving no room for anything else) and of course the food, which is summarized here:

“But more of the food was disappointing, sometimes even infuriating, be it a rubbery roasted pork chop, perhaps left too long in its brine; limp iceberg lettuce, propped up insufficiently by blue cheese; those mashed potatoes, gluey; or a crème brûlée in dire need of a crunchier hood.”

Ouch!!! The twists and turns do not stop there. The Kobe Club is owned by Jeffrey Chodorow, theme master behind China Grill and Asia de Cuba, both of which have stood the test of time and have been hugely successful in New York and elsewhere. He was also behind the now defunct Rocco’s, the eponymous restaurant of Chef Rocco DiSpirito and focus of reality show, The Restaurant. By the way, for all of you who have never seen “The Restaurant”, no worries as it was one of the worst productions in television history, Rocco got fired along with his meatball making grandmother and Mr.Chodorow quickly realized the restaurant was a complete failure, as was the show.

In any event, Mr. Chodorow in lieu of this rather petulant review, fired back with a full page ad a week later lamenting Mr. Bruni and the Times Editor for their findings, saying that the paper was insulting not only him but all of his employees that worked at the restaurant. I have attached the link here in case you were wondering what the full breadth of his diatribe was. Citing Mr. Bruni’s past as a correspondent in Italy focusing on politics, he went on to say that how could a critic for the New York Times, first not be a native New Yorker and second, have no past in the restaurant business. You can imagine the drama it has caused in New York and has sparked debate throughout the World Wide Web. The question: Does a food critic have the influence to single handedly determine whether a restaurant succeeds or fails? I have my thoughts, but welcome yours. Stay tuned for part two. Good Eating.

Tomatoes

2007-02-10T15:01:00.000+08:00

There has been talk of this farming project for some time now and finally with a little help from mother nature we have finally reaped natures bounty. A collaboration between my farming partner James Khi and myself, these tomatoes are the first step in a long process that will have many ups and downs. Already we have identified varities that do not meet our taste requirements or simply do not respond well to the temperate climate of the Cameron Highlands.

Our first batch of 15 different heirloom seeds produced some astonishing results. The Carbon Tomato, with a skin of deep purple and a dark dense flesh was irresistable. Loaded with tomato flavor that was nuanced with sweet tobacco and a pleasant acidity, this was hands down the best toamto of the lot. Not far behind was a unique yellow hued variety named the Copia, which was striking with a tiger print of yellow and orange streaks. The flavor was quite subdued but pleasing and the flesh was firm and dense.

I think what was striking in hindsight was that before we tasted any of the varieties, James and many of the farmers concluded that one variety would outshine them all. The Henderson Crimson Cushion. A beautiful toamto to look at with picture perfect pleats reminiscent of a pin cusion with a vibrant red hue and perfectly round physique.A jewel by all accounts. But, when we sliced it open we knew immediately that we had been fooled. What was once so promising proved to be a huge dissapointment, as the pinkish flesh gave way to a pithy core and small greenish seedsacks. In many ways this was a blessing and was exactly the reason why we are doing this project. All of those perfectly round, homogenous looking tomatoes we see in the markets are a direct reflection of the consumers need for uniformity. In this pursuit we have lost touch with what good eating is all about, flavor.

If you would like to taste a few of these beautiful gems we will be featuring them over the next few days, so stop on by and say hello. Till next time. Good Eating!

Water

2007-01-06T13:21:00.000+08:00

Never before have I been so befuddled by a server’s response to a rather generic question. Could I have a glass of water, please?” I said, “ I’m sorry we don’t serve water here” she replied. Pause. Pause. Pause. Ummmm……..(head weaving in disillusionment)”ok I guess I am fine then”, I finally forced out.

What is remarkable, is the fact that I am speaking of a restaurant in Singapore not Manila. I have spent sleep-less nights, tossing and turning thinking about what would possess a restaurant not to offer regular tap water. I have weighed the pros and cons, thought like a customer and returned back to being a chef. I deliberated the impact it would have on future business and to whether I would return to this particular establishment.

I wondered if economically the restaurant needed the money generated by bottled water to stay afloat. The time, energy and thought I devoted to this single event was consuming me. This is why I have devoted the entirety of my thoughts to this page and to finally cleanse myself of this awful nightmare.

Ok, so I start from the beginning and to clarify, the restaurant in question does serve water, by the bottle only. My particular rant is in lieu of their no tap water policy. In an effort to try and understand as a restaurateur myself, I have put together a few thoughts in defense of this act.

Perhaps the reason they do not serve tap water is because they are afraid of people taking up valuable real estate beside the river and ordering nothing but water. A valid, but, seemingly fruitless thought. I mean how many people pull up a chair ask for a glass of water and parlay the next two hours reading Moby Dick. My guess, not many.

Or perhaps even more relevant is the added stress on the staff, having to pour water for every customer. Again, I see the point but honestly, the time it takes for a waiter or waitress to pour water is irrelevant in the broader context of a meal. This is basic hospitality 101. When you have a guest at your house, at the very least, offer them a glass of water.

Don’t get me wrong, I like bottled water and appreciate the convenience and hygienic standards even more so when trekking across the scorched barren plains of the Gobi Dessert, but when clean, clear refreshing tap water is available, I say pour up.

My most troubling concern though is that I have effectively eliminated this restaurant from all future consideration as a dining destination. I like the setting, I like the food but I just cannot get over them telling me that I could not have tap water. As a restaurateur and chef I cannot impress enough the value of the little details that make a difference. The tiny decisions we make can affect a restaurants success greatly. I wish this particular establishment the best of luck, but as for me I think I will look elsewhere when all I want is a glass of water.

Spinach and a Smile

2006-12-21T22:02:00.000+08:00

Today was a joyous day. James, my farming friend in Malaysia brought me my first crop of Bloomsdale Spinach. A superb variety of heirloom spinach that has a gloriously crinkle like texture and progresses in hue from the most vibrant green to the softest pastel. I will be featuring it in our Spinach Salad with beautiful pink lady apples and manchego cheese. On another note, the tomatoes that I have been longing for have finally begun to fruit, making way for a mid-january harvest and a bounty of beautiful rainbow colored gems. You will also be happy to know that we are working with some local grocers to supply our over stock of vegetables for you to buy and enjoy at home.

If any of you out there would like me to discuss a particular topic or answer any questions you may have, please feel free to chime in. This blog is all about touching on subjects that are of interest in the world of food, restaurants and general revelry. Till next time....

Organic Thoughts

2006-11-25T15:29:00.000+08:00

The first time I heard the term “organic” in relation to vegetables, my first thought was, aren’t vegetables already natural? Nay nay my friend, in the world of agri-business as it is so affectionately called, carrots are no longer just a carrot and that beautiful pristine looking ear of corn that has somehow endured 2 months at the bottom of your chiller and has defied the odds to carry on and live another day, is not from your hardworking farmer friend down the road, especially in February. Truth be told, this is not natural, in fact it is disturbing. Ever wonder why those beautiful tomatoes you bought at the local supermarket look great with there glossy red coat and bright green stem, but when you cut it open it weeps tears of under-ripe green seeds and displays a flesh of white pith that tastes like a mixture of water and diluted tomato paste. Yes oh yes, the great agri-businesses of our time have taken it upon themselves to extend the growing season of vegetables to have no season at all. The result is somewhere between money and well money. In the pursuit of the ever elusive dollar and the growing acceptance of well “crap” vegetables, these businesses have flourished and they are not going away any time soon. You will be delighted to know that most, if not all of those vegetables in your local supermarket have been treated, sprayed, injected or have absorbed some form of pesticide, herbicide, preservative or my favorite, “flavor enhancer”. To make it simple, what this all means is we are eating things that are first out of season, second don’t taste good and third are potentially harmful to our bodies.

As a chef I have a certain obligation to those I feed. I mean it doesn’t get more personal than ingesting the fruit of someone else’s labor. Many of you that have eaten here know that I have a particular devotion to fresh fruits and vegetables that have been grown with care and respect for the land. With that being said, it is rather difficult even for a chef to be 100% certain of where my fruit and vegetables come from. In Singapore we are a bit maligned by the fact that we have little if any agricultural resources, so we have to ship in from all over the world to catch a glimpse of that perfect White Asparagus in May or that beautiful tomato in August. The notion that I am implying is that we start looking at fruit and vegetables through a seasonal window rather than a year round fish bowl. Ask ourselves if those asparagus we are eating in November are well, really and truly great asparagus and wouldn’t it be nicer to tuck into a beautiful autumn root vegetable stew than a woody piece of asparagus any way. But, it is going to take time to develop the supply lines and relationships to secure great products. It involves a tremendous amount of effort and forethought as well as an undying determination to bring the best to our plates. So, I am on a quest and it may take me a little time to get there, but the goal is to bring back the flavor of life, and to me that is very natural.

Welcome!

2006-11-09T15:55:00.000+08:00

First off, welcome to the WineGarage website, a compendium of all the happenings, dinners, tastings and other musings that go on at the Garage. We are delighted that you have taken the time to check us out. It also happens to be the first official Blog of what will hopefully be a series of insightful, sometimes provocative but always interesting thoughts on topics ranging from organic vegetables to proper restroom etiquette. The blog is a meant to pique interest, spark conversation and create dialogue on subjects that are important and relevant to food, wine and other convivial activities. The whole idea of this blog is to bring more people into our little world of food and wine. I have always felt the constructive dialogue is part of the learning process not just for my development as a chef but as a person as well. So as the saying goes, “mi casa es su casa”, feel free to jump in and join the discussion.

On another note and perhaps a bit more interesting to some of you out there, is a project near and dear to my heart. I have partnered with a farm in Malaysia to start growing some of the vegetables we use at the restaurant, most notably the humble tomato. The heirloom seeds, imported from the states are currently growing in the Cameron Highlands under the watchful eyes of my farming partner James Khi. We have already encountered some hurdles but all in all it is going well. Harvest looks to be around the middle to end of January and with any luck should have a bounty of beautiful rainbow colored tomatoes to bring to the plate. This is just a small step in a long process to bring high quality fruit and vegetables to the restaurant and reaffirms our belief that the best foods are those that have been cared for. If your worried that you will miss out on the tomato harvest, fear not, as we will have plenty of tastings, dinners and special features here at the restaurant. So sit back, relax and enjoy, I am positive that our journey through food and wine utopia will be a great one. Cheers!