Showing posts with label restaurants. Show all posts
Showing posts with label restaurants. Show all posts
4.5.07
Marutama Ramen
Some of you have asked me to post on some of the restaurants I like to eat at, so here it is. Marutama makes some sick ramen. Everytime I eat it I leave with a glorious smile and heinous garlic breath. If you sit at the counter be careful of the little bowl of fried garlic chips, wonderfully toasty and crisp that you can add at will to make the chicken based broth utterly mind blowing. The little place tucked into a corner in Central Mall is always packed at lunch, so go early or late if you don't want to wait. I always get the Marutama Ramen with Tasty Egg and Char Siu. A perfect lunch! Happy Eating.
19.4.07
Eating Australia
I know, it’s been a while. Many of you who know me personally can attest to my notoriously lackluster record of keeping in touch. In any event I have vowed to get back on track, to post more often and aim at the heart of this blog, to communicate with all of you.
Part of my lapse, and by no means an excuse was my recent trip to Australia. Ten days of nothing but great wine, relaxation, inspiring food and some of the nicest people I have ever met. I won’t bore you with all the details but I will recommend a few spots that are worthy of your pilgrimage in and around Victoria.
First, the Yarra Valley, home to many great wine producers and some really great eats. If your ever heading up there, stay at the Healesville Hotel, right on the main drag in the center of town for some stylish accommodations and some seriously good grub. Eat in the tavern for a casual Aussie style dinner. We split a whole bunch of plates and to recommend one would be pointless. Everything is seasonal and written on the blackboard and from my experience you can’t go wrong. So cozy up to a VB or one of Yarra’s finest reds and enjoy the night by the fireplace.
As you travel south you will hit what is arguably the best Pinot producing area in Australia, the Mornington Peninsula. We had the good fortune of being in the right place at the right time with a tour and special Tasting from the man himself at Moorooduc Estate. Richard makes some killer Chardonnays and Pinots, all using wild yeasts. Pretty impressive seeing he is a doctor by day. Great stuff. While your there stop by Ten Minutes by Tractor winery, who make some pretty good vino, but also have a top notch restaurant worth a detour. The dining room seemingly hangs over the vineyard where we enjoyed a beautiful antipasto plate and great artisan bread.
Down and around to the Great Ocean Road, you will run into a little place called “A la Grecque”. Apparently transplants from Melbourne, this greek family knows how to cook. On a damp and rainy afternoon we tucked into a stew of chickpeas and chorizo sausage that would make you wish it was damp and rainy all the time. Next up was a superb Bruschetta of Pecorino Pecato and fall pears perched upon toasted bread with a walnut pesto that was so gorgeous I declared it the best dish of our trip.
On to Melbourne, restaurant capital of Oz. Unfortunately, we hit Melbourne during Easter weekend which meant lots of places where closed, but fortunately we found a few that were definitely worth mentioning. First, the European, a classy all day café with superb coffee, attentive service and classy European fare. Have breakfast, lunch or dinner, it doesn’t matter, it will all be good, maybe not memorable but a great place to relax and watch the time go by. Next up Bar Lourinha, a hip little tapas joint with perhaps the best cocktail I have ever consumed. Get it, its called the “townbike” or something like that. Ridiculously good, flavored with pomegranate juice, rose water, prosecco and Frangelico it is not to be missed. The food is also notable, smoky eggplant with crème fraiche was reminiscent of red meat and the kingfish crudo scented with lemon and thyme was insanely fresh and cut perfectly. Little nuggets of chorizo in apple cider braised onions were beautiful. All in all a great trip. Holidays around great food and drink are something I always cherish. Till next time…
Part of my lapse, and by no means an excuse was my recent trip to Australia. Ten days of nothing but great wine, relaxation, inspiring food and some of the nicest people I have ever met. I won’t bore you with all the details but I will recommend a few spots that are worthy of your pilgrimage in and around Victoria.
First, the Yarra Valley, home to many great wine producers and some really great eats. If your ever heading up there, stay at the Healesville Hotel, right on the main drag in the center of town for some stylish accommodations and some seriously good grub. Eat in the tavern for a casual Aussie style dinner. We split a whole bunch of plates and to recommend one would be pointless. Everything is seasonal and written on the blackboard and from my experience you can’t go wrong. So cozy up to a VB or one of Yarra’s finest reds and enjoy the night by the fireplace.
As you travel south you will hit what is arguably the best Pinot producing area in Australia, the Mornington Peninsula. We had the good fortune of being in the right place at the right time with a tour and special Tasting from the man himself at Moorooduc Estate. Richard makes some killer Chardonnays and Pinots, all using wild yeasts. Pretty impressive seeing he is a doctor by day. Great stuff. While your there stop by Ten Minutes by Tractor winery, who make some pretty good vino, but also have a top notch restaurant worth a detour. The dining room seemingly hangs over the vineyard where we enjoyed a beautiful antipasto plate and great artisan bread.
Down and around to the Great Ocean Road, you will run into a little place called “A la Grecque”. Apparently transplants from Melbourne, this greek family knows how to cook. On a damp and rainy afternoon we tucked into a stew of chickpeas and chorizo sausage that would make you wish it was damp and rainy all the time. Next up was a superb Bruschetta of Pecorino Pecato and fall pears perched upon toasted bread with a walnut pesto that was so gorgeous I declared it the best dish of our trip.
On to Melbourne, restaurant capital of Oz. Unfortunately, we hit Melbourne during Easter weekend which meant lots of places where closed, but fortunately we found a few that were definitely worth mentioning. First, the European, a classy all day café with superb coffee, attentive service and classy European fare. Have breakfast, lunch or dinner, it doesn’t matter, it will all be good, maybe not memorable but a great place to relax and watch the time go by. Next up Bar Lourinha, a hip little tapas joint with perhaps the best cocktail I have ever consumed. Get it, its called the “townbike” or something like that. Ridiculously good, flavored with pomegranate juice, rose water, prosecco and Frangelico it is not to be missed. The food is also notable, smoky eggplant with crème fraiche was reminiscent of red meat and the kingfish crudo scented with lemon and thyme was insanely fresh and cut perfectly. Little nuggets of chorizo in apple cider braised onions were beautiful. All in all a great trip. Holidays around great food and drink are something I always cherish. Till next time…
22.2.07
The Power of a Food Critic Part 1
I try and stay as connected as I can to the New York Restaurant scene, in part because I have a tremendous interest in the food scene there and most importantly, a restaurant in New York has to be good, or it simply won’t last, so the competition is greater and by virtue, the product better. There are many resources I use, including my friends to stay hip and a growing number of websites including eGullet.com, eater.com and the restaurant section of New York Magazine. However, I always default to the New York Times for the latest reviews on the newest restaurants and more specifically to their food critic Frank Bruni for an always interesting read on the psychosis of a restaurants failing or burgeoning success.
One review recently peaked my interest, not so much for the content but for the reverberations of its findings. The restaurant was Kobe Club, a stylishly themed temple to the king of all cows. In it, Mr. Bruni deliberately critiques everything from the décor (2000 Razor sharp samurai swords hanging from the ceiling), to the oversized plate ware (leaving no room for anything else) and of course the food, which is summarized here:
“But more of the food was disappointing, sometimes even infuriating, be it a rubbery roasted pork chop, perhaps left too long in its brine; limp iceberg lettuce, propped up insufficiently by blue cheese; those mashed potatoes, gluey; or a crème brûlée in dire need of a crunchier hood.”
Ouch!!! The twists and turns do not stop there. The Kobe Club is owned by Jeffrey Chodorow, theme master behind China Grill and Asia de Cuba, both of which have stood the test of time and have been hugely successful in New York and elsewhere. He was also behind the now defunct Rocco’s, the eponymous restaurant of Chef Rocco DiSpirito and focus of reality show, The Restaurant. By the way, for all of you who have never seen “The Restaurant”, no worries as it was one of the worst productions in television history, Rocco got fired along with his meatball making grandmother and Mr.Chodorow quickly realized the restaurant was a complete failure, as was the show.
In any event, Mr. Chodorow in lieu of this rather petulant review, fired back with a full page ad a week later lamenting Mr. Bruni and the Times Editor for their findings, saying that the paper was insulting not only him but all of his employees that worked at the restaurant. I have attached the link here in case you were wondering what the full breadth of his diatribe was. Citing Mr. Bruni’s past as a correspondent in Italy focusing on politics, he went on to say that how could a critic for the New York Times, first not be a native New Yorker and second, have no past in the restaurant business. You can imagine the drama it has caused in New York and has sparked debate throughout the World Wide Web. The question: Does a food critic have the influence to single handedly determine whether a restaurant succeeds or fails? I have my thoughts, but welcome yours. Stay tuned for part two. Good Eating.
One review recently peaked my interest, not so much for the content but for the reverberations of its findings. The restaurant was Kobe Club, a stylishly themed temple to the king of all cows. In it, Mr. Bruni deliberately critiques everything from the décor (2000 Razor sharp samurai swords hanging from the ceiling), to the oversized plate ware (leaving no room for anything else) and of course the food, which is summarized here:
“But more of the food was disappointing, sometimes even infuriating, be it a rubbery roasted pork chop, perhaps left too long in its brine; limp iceberg lettuce, propped up insufficiently by blue cheese; those mashed potatoes, gluey; or a crème brûlée in dire need of a crunchier hood.”
Ouch!!! The twists and turns do not stop there. The Kobe Club is owned by Jeffrey Chodorow, theme master behind China Grill and Asia de Cuba, both of which have stood the test of time and have been hugely successful in New York and elsewhere. He was also behind the now defunct Rocco’s, the eponymous restaurant of Chef Rocco DiSpirito and focus of reality show, The Restaurant. By the way, for all of you who have never seen “The Restaurant”, no worries as it was one of the worst productions in television history, Rocco got fired along with his meatball making grandmother and Mr.Chodorow quickly realized the restaurant was a complete failure, as was the show.
In any event, Mr. Chodorow in lieu of this rather petulant review, fired back with a full page ad a week later lamenting Mr. Bruni and the Times Editor for their findings, saying that the paper was insulting not only him but all of his employees that worked at the restaurant. I have attached the link here in case you were wondering what the full breadth of his diatribe was. Citing Mr. Bruni’s past as a correspondent in Italy focusing on politics, he went on to say that how could a critic for the New York Times, first not be a native New Yorker and second, have no past in the restaurant business. You can imagine the drama it has caused in New York and has sparked debate throughout the World Wide Web. The question: Does a food critic have the influence to single handedly determine whether a restaurant succeeds or fails? I have my thoughts, but welcome yours. Stay tuned for part two. Good Eating.
6.1.07
Water
Never before have I been so befuddled by a server’s response to a rather generic question. Could I have a glass of water, please?” I said, “ I’m sorry we don’t serve water here” she replied. Pause. Pause. Pause. Ummmm……..(head weaving in disillusionment)”ok I guess I am fine then”, I finally forced out.
What is remarkable, is the fact that I am speaking of a restaurant in Singapore not Manila. I have spent sleep-less nights, tossing and turning thinking about what would possess a restaurant not to offer regular tap water. I have weighed the pros and cons, thought like a customer and returned back to being a chef. I deliberated the impact it would have on future business and to whether I would return to this particular establishment.
I wondered if economically the restaurant needed the money generated by bottled water to stay afloat. The time, energy and thought I devoted to this single event was consuming me. This is why I have devoted the entirety of my thoughts to this page and to finally cleanse myself of this awful nightmare.
Ok, so I start from the beginning and to clarify, the restaurant in question does serve water, by the bottle only. My particular rant is in lieu of their no tap water policy. In an effort to try and understand as a restaurateur myself, I have put together a few thoughts in defense of this act.
Perhaps the reason they do not serve tap water is because they are afraid of people taking up valuable real estate beside the river and ordering nothing but water. A valid, but, seemingly fruitless thought. I mean how many people pull up a chair ask for a glass of water and parlay the next two hours reading Moby Dick. My guess, not many.
Or perhaps even more relevant is the added stress on the staff, having to pour water for every customer. Again, I see the point but honestly, the time it takes for a waiter or waitress to pour water is irrelevant in the broader context of a meal. This is basic hospitality 101. When you have a guest at your house, at the very least, offer them a glass of water.
Don’t get me wrong, I like bottled water and appreciate the convenience and hygienic standards even more so when trekking across the scorched barren plains of the Gobi Dessert, but when clean, clear refreshing tap water is available, I say pour up.
My most troubling concern though is that I have effectively eliminated this restaurant from all future consideration as a dining destination. I like the setting, I like the food but I just cannot get over them telling me that I could not have tap water. As a restaurateur and chef I cannot impress enough the value of the little details that make a difference. The tiny decisions we make can affect a restaurants success greatly. I wish this particular establishment the best of luck, but as for me I think I will look elsewhere when all I want is a glass of water.
What is remarkable, is the fact that I am speaking of a restaurant in Singapore not Manila. I have spent sleep-less nights, tossing and turning thinking about what would possess a restaurant not to offer regular tap water. I have weighed the pros and cons, thought like a customer and returned back to being a chef. I deliberated the impact it would have on future business and to whether I would return to this particular establishment.
I wondered if economically the restaurant needed the money generated by bottled water to stay afloat. The time, energy and thought I devoted to this single event was consuming me. This is why I have devoted the entirety of my thoughts to this page and to finally cleanse myself of this awful nightmare.
Ok, so I start from the beginning and to clarify, the restaurant in question does serve water, by the bottle only. My particular rant is in lieu of their no tap water policy. In an effort to try and understand as a restaurateur myself, I have put together a few thoughts in defense of this act.
Perhaps the reason they do not serve tap water is because they are afraid of people taking up valuable real estate beside the river and ordering nothing but water. A valid, but, seemingly fruitless thought. I mean how many people pull up a chair ask for a glass of water and parlay the next two hours reading Moby Dick. My guess, not many.
Or perhaps even more relevant is the added stress on the staff, having to pour water for every customer. Again, I see the point but honestly, the time it takes for a waiter or waitress to pour water is irrelevant in the broader context of a meal. This is basic hospitality 101. When you have a guest at your house, at the very least, offer them a glass of water.
Don’t get me wrong, I like bottled water and appreciate the convenience and hygienic standards even more so when trekking across the scorched barren plains of the Gobi Dessert, but when clean, clear refreshing tap water is available, I say pour up.
My most troubling concern though is that I have effectively eliminated this restaurant from all future consideration as a dining destination. I like the setting, I like the food but I just cannot get over them telling me that I could not have tap water. As a restaurateur and chef I cannot impress enough the value of the little details that make a difference. The tiny decisions we make can affect a restaurants success greatly. I wish this particular establishment the best of luck, but as for me I think I will look elsewhere when all I want is a glass of water.
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