I can't tell you how excited I am to finally have our first major crop of tomatoes from our farm in the highlands of Malaysia. We are currently featuring 5 different tomatoes, all unique in taste, texture and color. They are explosive and easily some of the best tomatoes I have ever had. We are using them to make a vibrant gazpacho laced with lime juice and avocado and a salad featuring all 5 types with beautiful buffalo milk mozzarella from Italy. There is also a beautiful risotto made with the tomato water and flecks of the rainbow hued flesh. A rustic pasta is made from our hosemade fennel Sausage and fresh tomato sauce, offset by little fava beans and gran padano cheese. T
In only a few days since we have had the tomatoes there has been an overwhelming response. Many have never before seen tomatoes of a different color or can imagine one that is almost a kg in size. Come down, have a taste and decide for yourself. Trust me it's worth it.
9.10.07
18.9.07
Steak: Do you really know what your eating?
I have been on a steak kick lately. Obsessed with everything that makes a great steak great. I came across an article on asiaone.com.sg titled "Know Your Steak". While the article had good intentions, the author failed to mention a few key points as well as make a few false statements.
First, on the topic of ageing beef. Beef can either be "dry" aged or "wet" aged. When an animal is butchered it benefits from hanging in a cold room for up to a month or more. This process known as dry ageing, tenderizes the meat, breaking down protein strands and enhancing texture and flavor. Moisture loss is also a factor in defining the beefy flavor which may result in the cut losing up to 40% of its original weight thus increasing the price dramaticly. This method is rarely used in the commercial and retail environments anymore. Partly because of the cost to produce and secondly, because dry ageing really only benefits the best animals graded USDA prime and choice in America.
The term "aged" can also be applied to wet aged beef which is a process of sealing the meat in a vacuum bag, thus eliminating all air. The same enzymatic process occurs during this ageing as well, tenderizing the meat, flavor however is not improved because there is no moisture lost in the process. This is how most steaks are aged, even the ones at Morton's. Famous steak houses like Peter Lugar's in New York, PrimeHouse in Chicago and Berns's in Tampa still dry age thier meat the old fashioned way.
The second misnomer I would like to dispel is that of the "searing" process. The author says that searing a steak will lock in the moisture of the meat which is false. Searing promotes what is called the "Maillard Reaction" or in laymans terms, the beautiful crust, which is basically enhancing the flavor on the surface of the meat by browning all those good bits.
We have experimented recently with dry ageing here at the restaurant and have had very favorable results. In fact I still have a few dry aged steaks left for anyone reading who wants a taste before they all disappear. The ageing produced a highly nuanced piece of beef with great tenderness and texture. We will be bringing you more dry aged meat in the coming weeks and months and hope to start the first meat dry ageing program in Singapore.
If you would like to know more about the subject of meat, please go and pick up "The River Cottage Meat Book" by Hugh Fearnley Whittingstall. It is without question the quitessential text on all things bovine. Till next time.
First, on the topic of ageing beef. Beef can either be "dry" aged or "wet" aged. When an animal is butchered it benefits from hanging in a cold room for up to a month or more. This process known as dry ageing, tenderizes the meat, breaking down protein strands and enhancing texture and flavor. Moisture loss is also a factor in defining the beefy flavor which may result in the cut losing up to 40% of its original weight thus increasing the price dramaticly. This method is rarely used in the commercial and retail environments anymore. Partly because of the cost to produce and secondly, because dry ageing really only benefits the best animals graded USDA prime and choice in America.
The term "aged" can also be applied to wet aged beef which is a process of sealing the meat in a vacuum bag, thus eliminating all air. The same enzymatic process occurs during this ageing as well, tenderizing the meat, flavor however is not improved because there is no moisture lost in the process. This is how most steaks are aged, even the ones at Morton's. Famous steak houses like Peter Lugar's in New York, PrimeHouse in Chicago and Berns's in Tampa still dry age thier meat the old fashioned way.
The second misnomer I would like to dispel is that of the "searing" process. The author says that searing a steak will lock in the moisture of the meat which is false. Searing promotes what is called the "Maillard Reaction" or in laymans terms, the beautiful crust, which is basically enhancing the flavor on the surface of the meat by browning all those good bits.
We have experimented recently with dry ageing here at the restaurant and have had very favorable results. In fact I still have a few dry aged steaks left for anyone reading who wants a taste before they all disappear. The ageing produced a highly nuanced piece of beef with great tenderness and texture. We will be bringing you more dry aged meat in the coming weeks and months and hope to start the first meat dry ageing program in Singapore.
If you would like to know more about the subject of meat, please go and pick up "The River Cottage Meat Book" by Hugh Fearnley Whittingstall. It is without question the quitessential text on all things bovine. Till next time.
18.8.07
Cocktail Craftsmanship
After a long night at the restaurant I sometimes crave a well made cocktail. Wether it is a simple superchilled Dirty Martini or a beautifully balanced Negroni, I am always searching for perfection. Most recently on my trip to New York, I had the pleasure of being taken too a great a little bar called The East Side Company, where they expertly mix your drink with the same precision and passion that you see at some of the top restaurants. What struck me was that you don't order a cocktail by name, but rather by the base. Meaning vodka, gin, whiskey, etc. They then concoct a unique cocktail based on your preferences. It was remarkable. Think underground prohibition era speakeasy with a secret door and super secrecy. Definitely cool. So I started thinking, what if we could come up with a few "perfect" cocktails to begin or end your evening here at the restaurant. With that in mind I came back with a vision of creating cocktails that are balanced, beautiful and delicious. My inspiration was America, and the classic cocktails of years gone by. So now in the works are modern takes on the Mint Julep, Tom Collins, The Martini and a few others. I hope to offer these cocktails as an extension of our beverage program, to make your meal more memorable and to enjoy the craftsmanship of a properly made drink. Stay Tuned.
3.8.07
Tales From a Trip to Gluttony
For me a great vacation usually means a good 4-5kg swing in the wrong direction. I dutifully eat as little as I can prior to departure, knowing that upon arrival the gorging will begin. It is not the kind of gorging where I deliberately stuff my face with fried foods of mysterious origin, but a calculated if not perverse eating expedition that is carefully choreographed. I throw in little stops for snacks, late night places for the midnight munchies and everything in between.
This time in New York was special. For one, I was reunited with my wife after three weeks of seperation, not because of differences, but because I had to work and she started her vacation early. Second, because in my three days I did not put one bad thing in my mouth. The highlights are numerous. The hamachi and cured country hams at Momofuku, a pseudo japanese burrito joint with a penchant for everything porcine. The Amadai and Eel/Foie Gras Terrine at Atelier Robuchon, and the most gorgeous Ricotta Cavatelli and Succulent Pork Chop at The Little Owl. Forgive me for not mentioning sooner the insane little cheese and wine bar Cassellula that among other things, hit the spot one late night with an outrageous Pig's Ass Sandwich. Need I say more.
On the homefront, mom whipped up her usual World's best lobster roll on a toasted hot dog bun with what seemed like endless boulders of the glorious crustacean. I ate my yearly allowance and took a nap. Then my grandfather in a historic cook-off with his Chef grandson, kicked my ass with his always crowd pleasing and dare I say the best meatballs I have ever consumed. I was no match for the king. A surprising pit-stop on I-84, the highway connecting Connecticut to New York, for those who were wondering, offered up the best pastrami reuben I have had in a great while. Think gloriously butter toasted rye bread, oozing swiss cheese and glistening slices of the good stuff all lubricated with the traditional russian dressing. All was well in the world.
On the last leg of our trip that included a brief day and a half stop-over in Stockholm, we had the tremendous luck of discovering Restaurant Mathias Dahlgren, which definitely proved Michelin worthy, despite it's apparently two month infancy. One of our favorite dishes were the strawberries at the end of the meal that were served simply with Vanilla Ice cream and Strawberry Meringue. Easily the best fruit I have tasted all year, and another tribute to the simple mantra of Quality speaks.
Ok, time to get back to work. Till next time......
This time in New York was special. For one, I was reunited with my wife after three weeks of seperation, not because of differences, but because I had to work and she started her vacation early. Second, because in my three days I did not put one bad thing in my mouth. The highlights are numerous. The hamachi and cured country hams at Momofuku, a pseudo japanese burrito joint with a penchant for everything porcine. The Amadai and Eel/Foie Gras Terrine at Atelier Robuchon, and the most gorgeous Ricotta Cavatelli and Succulent Pork Chop at The Little Owl. Forgive me for not mentioning sooner the insane little cheese and wine bar Cassellula that among other things, hit the spot one late night with an outrageous Pig's Ass Sandwich. Need I say more.
On the homefront, mom whipped up her usual World's best lobster roll on a toasted hot dog bun with what seemed like endless boulders of the glorious crustacean. I ate my yearly allowance and took a nap. Then my grandfather in a historic cook-off with his Chef grandson, kicked my ass with his always crowd pleasing and dare I say the best meatballs I have ever consumed. I was no match for the king. A surprising pit-stop on I-84, the highway connecting Connecticut to New York, for those who were wondering, offered up the best pastrami reuben I have had in a great while. Think gloriously butter toasted rye bread, oozing swiss cheese and glistening slices of the good stuff all lubricated with the traditional russian dressing. All was well in the world.
On the last leg of our trip that included a brief day and a half stop-over in Stockholm, we had the tremendous luck of discovering Restaurant Mathias Dahlgren, which definitely proved Michelin worthy, despite it's apparently two month infancy. One of our favorite dishes were the strawberries at the end of the meal that were served simply with Vanilla Ice cream and Strawberry Meringue. Easily the best fruit I have tasted all year, and another tribute to the simple mantra of Quality speaks.
Ok, time to get back to work. Till next time......
12.7.07
The Italian Way
Last night I headed over to Oso Restaurant for a glass of wine and some cheese. I always enjoy the humble hospitality of Stephane and Diego, who so gracefully look after thier guests. It was over a glass of Nebbiolo and a beautiful cheese plate that I reminisced of my time spent in the upper half of the boot. Italians are by far the most hospitable and kind people I have ever met. They welcome each day with a sense of wonderment and a sincere appreciation for the act of eating and drinking. They relish the perfect slice of prosciutto, wait months for the first insanely ripe tomato to pull from the vine and wax poetic about wines made from thier obscure indigenous grapes. Quality always trumps quantity and from village to village the cooking is local and seasonal with variations abound. What always strikes me is the simplicity of the offerings and the feeling that at that very moment you are eating the best thing in the world. It is these memories that spur my quest to find or produce the best ingredients I can. As most of you know, the tomatoes are my first project, but I laso hope to bring many other locally grown vegetables and fruit to the table soon.
I head off to New York and Boston next week for my Holiday and hope to file in when I get a few spare moments from the endless barage of eating and drinking. I will certainly remember that eating well is a matter of simplicity and sometimes living life to the fullest means living life one day at a time just like in Italy.
I head off to New York and Boston next week for my Holiday and hope to file in when I get a few spare moments from the endless barage of eating and drinking. I will certainly remember that eating well is a matter of simplicity and sometimes living life to the fullest means living life one day at a time just like in Italy.
3.7.07
Just Smile and Say Goodbye
The other day I asked my staff what the difference between service and hospitality was. A few replied with textbook accuracy, others were bewildered and a few more started to really think. I had recently been to an outpost of Ya Kun Kaya Toast for a cup of coffee and some kaya and that's when the wheels started to turn. The cashier was curt, failing to display any sort of smile or warmth. I proceeded with the payment, ate my toast and left. The next day without much thought, I popped in to Starbucks for a quick coffee and a read of the paper. As soon as I entered I was greeted with a glowing smile and infectous energy. I ordered, had a brief conversation and enjoyed my quiet morning. When I left they said, "goodbye and see you again", and so I pondered, two coffees: two different experiences.
The truth is, that service is the technical ability to deliver a product, think car mechanic or massage therapist. They are providing a service and in turn delivering you a result. Hospitality is the innate ability to generate memories and experiences from someone. Intangible elements such as the greeting, the farewell and the friendly smile all play a part in defining this form of generosity. It cannot be contrived, manipulated or faked. In many ways hospitality is the texture of an experience, something that is warm, comforting and genuine. It could be the use of your name as you arrive or the thoughtfullness of the staff as they recall your preferences and look after you as though you were invited to thier home. It is the way you are spoken too, the subtle gestures and the care exuded by the individual.
In Singapore, the problem lies not with the training of technical service standards but with the ability to foster hospitality among the staff. A great service experience in a restaurant almost always reflects the "mood" of the staff and the environment in which they create. They have to be active particpants in the experience. There are many who believe that great service across the board in Singapore is impossible and should never be expected unless your paying for it at the highest levels. But the truth of the matter is, it doesn't cost anything to have staff smile and say goodbye. Till next time....
The truth is, that service is the technical ability to deliver a product, think car mechanic or massage therapist. They are providing a service and in turn delivering you a result. Hospitality is the innate ability to generate memories and experiences from someone. Intangible elements such as the greeting, the farewell and the friendly smile all play a part in defining this form of generosity. It cannot be contrived, manipulated or faked. In many ways hospitality is the texture of an experience, something that is warm, comforting and genuine. It could be the use of your name as you arrive or the thoughtfullness of the staff as they recall your preferences and look after you as though you were invited to thier home. It is the way you are spoken too, the subtle gestures and the care exuded by the individual.
In Singapore, the problem lies not with the training of technical service standards but with the ability to foster hospitality among the staff. A great service experience in a restaurant almost always reflects the "mood" of the staff and the environment in which they create. They have to be active particpants in the experience. There are many who believe that great service across the board in Singapore is impossible and should never be expected unless your paying for it at the highest levels. But the truth of the matter is, it doesn't cost anything to have staff smile and say goodbye. Till next time....
8.6.07
Brrrrr.....unch
I much prefer the Brr…than the unch in Brunch, but to satiate all appetites, we will be inaugurating our big weekend feast starting 23rd of June. Everyone always asks me what I like to cook and I always 
reply, breakfast. I’m sorry if this offends people, but, I love the smell of bacon in the morning, and have been woken many a times from a deep slumber from it’s glorious scent, not to mention the lingering aromas of fresh brewed coffee and french toast hot off the griddle. I have vowed with our brunch to stick to the basics and cook from the heart. As a treat to the millions of readers of this blog I thought I would pass along a little eye candy to get you dreaming. I won’t fill you in on the exact details of each dish, but as the saying goes "a picture is worth a thousand words."
When you think of breakfast with us, I want you to invision, house cured bacon, freshly squeezed juices and rustic pancakes. A place where you can come at the end of a long week and relax, read the paper, catch up with friends, have a few coffees and tuck into some good food.
If you’re a bit more ambitious you can always start the morning with a bottle of bubbly or a fiery bloody mary. It’s up too you. We will also have the almost world famous "Garage" Burger and our fresh Oysters available for your enjoyment. I look forward to seeing all of you!! Here are a few pics to keep you salivating.
Slow Food = Slow Results
There was a recent article posted on the Slowfood website in Singapore that caught my attention. Mainly because Slow Food is an organization I have flirted with off and on for about 5 years now. Each time I was uprooted and moved to a new city in the states, I would find the local convivium and see what they were up too. Some were focused on sustaining dying breeds of pigs others on preserving the legacy of heirloom vegetables while many more were formal and proper and participated in luncheons and dinners that supported slow food producers.
What I learned most about Slow Food, and contradictory to the article had nothing to do with the physical act of eating slow, but rather a sincere desire to keep traditions alive and sustaining our environment for years to come. It was a holistic approach to eating, in that what you eat is as important as how you came to eat it.
With that being said I started to ponder my philosophy here at the restaurant and questioning the methods and ways in which we end up with a final dish. Many of you know that our food here is rather minimalist, meaning that we showcase a few great ingredients on a plate with minimal fuss. In this pursuit, I am often at odds, mostly because of the source of my products. Do I know who produces my pork? Is my Salmon really farmed the way it says on their website? Is my produce grown in a manner that is sustainable? The questions go on and on. Being on an Island as glorious as it might sound does have its drawbacks. But, over the last year and half I have been able to assess the market and find those that are truly passionate about bringing in great ingredients even if they are at greater prices. I know in the long run, that for us to prosper as a restaurant we have to make a pledge to only buy and source the best, no matter the cost. Once Singapore becomes a major player on the international food scene, more and more great products will come our way.
Our farming project is still in the works and has taken some time to get up to speed, but the relationships we have built and are forging will be of great value in the years to come. I see a renewed interest in organic farming and a strong sense that to compete in the world markets, changes have to be made to the way they are growing vegetables in the highlands. Much of the interest in our project has come from you, our guests, who are as excited as we are to bring you nothing but the finest produce in South East Asia.
The moral of this whole rant, is that everything takes time to do it right. We must wait for the tomatoes to fully ripen to pick, take time to forge relationships with people who are passionate about what they produce and think about what goes onto a plate.
What I learned most about Slow Food, and contradictory to the article had nothing to do with the physical act of eating slow, but rather a sincere desire to keep traditions alive and sustaining our environment for years to come. It was a holistic approach to eating, in that what you eat is as important as how you came to eat it.
With that being said I started to ponder my philosophy here at the restaurant and questioning the methods and ways in which we end up with a final dish. Many of you know that our food here is rather minimalist, meaning that we showcase a few great ingredients on a plate with minimal fuss. In this pursuit, I am often at odds, mostly because of the source of my products. Do I know who produces my pork? Is my Salmon really farmed the way it says on their website? Is my produce grown in a manner that is sustainable? The questions go on and on. Being on an Island as glorious as it might sound does have its drawbacks. But, over the last year and half I have been able to assess the market and find those that are truly passionate about bringing in great ingredients even if they are at greater prices. I know in the long run, that for us to prosper as a restaurant we have to make a pledge to only buy and source the best, no matter the cost. Once Singapore becomes a major player on the international food scene, more and more great products will come our way.
Our farming project is still in the works and has taken some time to get up to speed, but the relationships we have built and are forging will be of great value in the years to come. I see a renewed interest in organic farming and a strong sense that to compete in the world markets, changes have to be made to the way they are growing vegetables in the highlands. Much of the interest in our project has come from you, our guests, who are as excited as we are to bring you nothing but the finest produce in South East Asia.
The moral of this whole rant, is that everything takes time to do it right. We must wait for the tomatoes to fully ripen to pick, take time to forge relationships with people who are passionate about what they produce and think about what goes onto a plate.
19.5.07
Pork-A-Nosis
I get irritated when journalists print stupid information, especially when it's about pork. I was reading reviews of restaurants on asiaone.com and came across a review of a restaurant called Perle Noir. The reviewer who happens to be a blogger at http://ieatishootipost.blogspot.com/, and also apparently happens to be a Doctor stated that “Since pork has to be taken well done (because pork harbors parasites like tapeworm which can also cause infestations in humans so it is important to cook it properly)” also failed to note that the chances of this actually happening are about a million to one.
The fear of trichinosis came about in age when people were poorly raising pigs in environments that were less that sanitary and in particular related to a diet of human waste and sewage. Nowadays pork is so fiercely controlled, not only in its breeding, but at all points of production. Furthermore, all that proscitutto you have eaten is in fact, raw pork. Of course it has been “cured” but essentially is no more of a risk than cooking a chop medium-rare. There are parts of the pig that do benefit from long cooking and slow braising like the shoulder and the glorious ribs. Even more beautiful is the belly, from which after gentle slow cooking nearly collapses on itself and the meat pulls away gently and with magnificent succulence.
This also brings me to another point. As chefs, we should all want to know where our pork comes from and how it is processed. As consumers you should ask your local butcher from whom he buys his pork. Some questions to ask include, Are the pigs allowed to roam or are they cooped like chickens? Is the pork processed with a brine, to increase the weight and substitute moisture for lean meat? Are the animals treated with hormones? On visual inspection, pork should be gloriously marbled and riddled with pearly white fat, and contrary to marketing claims, pork should be a shade of rose tinged toward red, not white or pearl. The pale, flaccid specimens we see at many supermarkets are the result of man’s intervention in the growth of what should be a natural process.
Pigs are one of the greatest animals on earth. In fact, pigs are one of the only animals that are completely edible from head to toe and have nourished people for centuries. Think prosciutto, bacon, ham, sausages, casings etc. If you want proof that Pork doesn’t have to be cooked well done, come down and try our chop. I guarantee you will wake up in the morning.
The fear of trichinosis came about in age when people were poorly raising pigs in environments that were less that sanitary and in particular related to a diet of human waste and sewage. Nowadays pork is so fiercely controlled, not only in its breeding, but at all points of production. Furthermore, all that proscitutto you have eaten is in fact, raw pork. Of course it has been “cured” but essentially is no more of a risk than cooking a chop medium-rare. There are parts of the pig that do benefit from long cooking and slow braising like the shoulder and the glorious ribs. Even more beautiful is the belly, from which after gentle slow cooking nearly collapses on itself and the meat pulls away gently and with magnificent succulence.
This also brings me to another point. As chefs, we should all want to know where our pork comes from and how it is processed. As consumers you should ask your local butcher from whom he buys his pork. Some questions to ask include, Are the pigs allowed to roam or are they cooped like chickens? Is the pork processed with a brine, to increase the weight and substitute moisture for lean meat? Are the animals treated with hormones? On visual inspection, pork should be gloriously marbled and riddled with pearly white fat, and contrary to marketing claims, pork should be a shade of rose tinged toward red, not white or pearl. The pale, flaccid specimens we see at many supermarkets are the result of man’s intervention in the growth of what should be a natural process.
Pigs are one of the greatest animals on earth. In fact, pigs are one of the only animals that are completely edible from head to toe and have nourished people for centuries. Think prosciutto, bacon, ham, sausages, casings etc. If you want proof that Pork doesn’t have to be cooked well done, come down and try our chop. I guarantee you will wake up in the morning.
4.5.07
Marutama Ramen
Some of you have asked me to post on some of the restaurants I like to eat at, so here it is. Marutama makes some sick ramen. Everytime I eat it I leave with a glorious smile and heinous garlic breath. If you sit at the counter be careful of the little bowl of fried garlic chips, wonderfully toasty and crisp that you can add at will to make the chicken based broth utterly mind blowing. The little place tucked into a corner in Central Mall is always packed at lunch, so go early or late if you don't want to wait. I always get the Marutama Ramen with Tasty Egg and Char Siu. A perfect lunch! Happy Eating.
2.5.07
People do read this blog
Contrary to popular belief, I actually met a couple at the restaurant who reads this blog. Who knew? While the few comments I have received have been from co-workers and family, it was refreshing to learn that perfect strangers, up till yesterday that is, occasionally dropped in to see what was on my mind. Interesting. Although, that is the point of a blog, isn’t it?
Well, I am back this week with a few words about service. What is it about great service? It can be something as small as a friendly smile welcoming you to the restaurant for the first time or a much appreciated glass of complimentary champagne to welcome you back for the tenth. Truth be told, quantifying service is rather difficult, it is the intangibles, the details and ultimately the feeling you get after you leave the restaurant that really makes the difference.
I will always remember the reception I got when I ducked into a wine shop on a cold and rainy afternoon in the small town of East Lansing, Michigan. The gentleman at the counter greeted me with a smile offered a towel to dry my head and face and proceeded to pour me a steaming cup of coffee. We talked at length about wine and food, his passion radiating with every word. Truth be told, I did not buy one bottle that day, but subsequently became my shop of choice during my “wine education” days at university. I always felt like I was going to visit a friend who just happened to know a lot about wine. I was a customer for life.
With every good service experience there seems to always be two or three bad ones not far behind. But, what I have learned that matters most is not necessarily the action but the reaction of the individual or business that matters most. One can simply shrug their shoulders and pretend that nothing happened or admit that they did not deliver on said promise and turn the situation around. Most of the time people understand and appreciate being looked after especially after something or someone has spoiled their experience. Human beings realize that things happen, and all they want is a sincere apology or acknowledgement of the situation. Honesty always trumps incompetence.
I would really like to hear feedback from all of you. Do you have a story about a great service experience, or one that simply made you furious?
Please tell. Till next time….
Well, I am back this week with a few words about service. What is it about great service? It can be something as small as a friendly smile welcoming you to the restaurant for the first time or a much appreciated glass of complimentary champagne to welcome you back for the tenth. Truth be told, quantifying service is rather difficult, it is the intangibles, the details and ultimately the feeling you get after you leave the restaurant that really makes the difference.
I will always remember the reception I got when I ducked into a wine shop on a cold and rainy afternoon in the small town of East Lansing, Michigan. The gentleman at the counter greeted me with a smile offered a towel to dry my head and face and proceeded to pour me a steaming cup of coffee. We talked at length about wine and food, his passion radiating with every word. Truth be told, I did not buy one bottle that day, but subsequently became my shop of choice during my “wine education” days at university. I always felt like I was going to visit a friend who just happened to know a lot about wine. I was a customer for life.
With every good service experience there seems to always be two or three bad ones not far behind. But, what I have learned that matters most is not necessarily the action but the reaction of the individual or business that matters most. One can simply shrug their shoulders and pretend that nothing happened or admit that they did not deliver on said promise and turn the situation around. Most of the time people understand and appreciate being looked after especially after something or someone has spoiled their experience. Human beings realize that things happen, and all they want is a sincere apology or acknowledgement of the situation. Honesty always trumps incompetence.
I would really like to hear feedback from all of you. Do you have a story about a great service experience, or one that simply made you furious?
Please tell. Till next time….
19.4.07
Eating Australia
I know, it’s been a while. Many of you who know me personally can attest to my notoriously lackluster record of keeping in touch. In any event I have vowed to get back on track, to post more often and aim at the heart of this blog, to communicate with all of you.
Part of my lapse, and by no means an excuse was my recent trip to Australia. Ten days of nothing but great wine, relaxation, inspiring food and some of the nicest people I have ever met. I won’t bore you with all the details but I will recommend a few spots that are worthy of your pilgrimage in and around Victoria.
First, the Yarra Valley, home to many great wine producers and some really great eats. If your ever heading up there, stay at the Healesville Hotel, right on the main drag in the center of town for some stylish accommodations and some seriously good grub. Eat in the tavern for a casual Aussie style dinner. We split a whole bunch of plates and to recommend one would be pointless. Everything is seasonal and written on the blackboard and from my experience you can’t go wrong. So cozy up to a VB or one of Yarra’s finest reds and enjoy the night by the fireplace.
As you travel south you will hit what is arguably the best Pinot producing area in Australia, the Mornington Peninsula. We had the good fortune of being in the right place at the right time with a tour and special Tasting from the man himself at Moorooduc Estate. Richard makes some killer Chardonnays and Pinots, all using wild yeasts. Pretty impressive seeing he is a doctor by day. Great stuff. While your there stop by Ten Minutes by Tractor winery, who make some pretty good vino, but also have a top notch restaurant worth a detour. The dining room seemingly hangs over the vineyard where we enjoyed a beautiful antipasto plate and great artisan bread.
Down and around to the Great Ocean Road, you will run into a little place called “A la Grecque”. Apparently transplants from Melbourne, this greek family knows how to cook. On a damp and rainy afternoon we tucked into a stew of chickpeas and chorizo sausage that would make you wish it was damp and rainy all the time. Next up was a superb Bruschetta of Pecorino Pecato and fall pears perched upon toasted bread with a walnut pesto that was so gorgeous I declared it the best dish of our trip.
On to Melbourne, restaurant capital of Oz. Unfortunately, we hit Melbourne during Easter weekend which meant lots of places where closed, but fortunately we found a few that were definitely worth mentioning. First, the European, a classy all day café with superb coffee, attentive service and classy European fare. Have breakfast, lunch or dinner, it doesn’t matter, it will all be good, maybe not memorable but a great place to relax and watch the time go by. Next up Bar Lourinha, a hip little tapas joint with perhaps the best cocktail I have ever consumed. Get it, its called the “townbike” or something like that. Ridiculously good, flavored with pomegranate juice, rose water, prosecco and Frangelico it is not to be missed. The food is also notable, smoky eggplant with crème fraiche was reminiscent of red meat and the kingfish crudo scented with lemon and thyme was insanely fresh and cut perfectly. Little nuggets of chorizo in apple cider braised onions were beautiful. All in all a great trip. Holidays around great food and drink are something I always cherish. Till next time…
Part of my lapse, and by no means an excuse was my recent trip to Australia. Ten days of nothing but great wine, relaxation, inspiring food and some of the nicest people I have ever met. I won’t bore you with all the details but I will recommend a few spots that are worthy of your pilgrimage in and around Victoria.
First, the Yarra Valley, home to many great wine producers and some really great eats. If your ever heading up there, stay at the Healesville Hotel, right on the main drag in the center of town for some stylish accommodations and some seriously good grub. Eat in the tavern for a casual Aussie style dinner. We split a whole bunch of plates and to recommend one would be pointless. Everything is seasonal and written on the blackboard and from my experience you can’t go wrong. So cozy up to a VB or one of Yarra’s finest reds and enjoy the night by the fireplace.
As you travel south you will hit what is arguably the best Pinot producing area in Australia, the Mornington Peninsula. We had the good fortune of being in the right place at the right time with a tour and special Tasting from the man himself at Moorooduc Estate. Richard makes some killer Chardonnays and Pinots, all using wild yeasts. Pretty impressive seeing he is a doctor by day. Great stuff. While your there stop by Ten Minutes by Tractor winery, who make some pretty good vino, but also have a top notch restaurant worth a detour. The dining room seemingly hangs over the vineyard where we enjoyed a beautiful antipasto plate and great artisan bread.
Down and around to the Great Ocean Road, you will run into a little place called “A la Grecque”. Apparently transplants from Melbourne, this greek family knows how to cook. On a damp and rainy afternoon we tucked into a stew of chickpeas and chorizo sausage that would make you wish it was damp and rainy all the time. Next up was a superb Bruschetta of Pecorino Pecato and fall pears perched upon toasted bread with a walnut pesto that was so gorgeous I declared it the best dish of our trip.
On to Melbourne, restaurant capital of Oz. Unfortunately, we hit Melbourne during Easter weekend which meant lots of places where closed, but fortunately we found a few that were definitely worth mentioning. First, the European, a classy all day café with superb coffee, attentive service and classy European fare. Have breakfast, lunch or dinner, it doesn’t matter, it will all be good, maybe not memorable but a great place to relax and watch the time go by. Next up Bar Lourinha, a hip little tapas joint with perhaps the best cocktail I have ever consumed. Get it, its called the “townbike” or something like that. Ridiculously good, flavored with pomegranate juice, rose water, prosecco and Frangelico it is not to be missed. The food is also notable, smoky eggplant with crème fraiche was reminiscent of red meat and the kingfish crudo scented with lemon and thyme was insanely fresh and cut perfectly. Little nuggets of chorizo in apple cider braised onions were beautiful. All in all a great trip. Holidays around great food and drink are something I always cherish. Till next time…
1.3.07
The Power of a Food Critic Part 2
There is one thing that is certain in New York, the only review that counts, is the one by the NYT. Lauded with past critics such as Mimi Sheraton and Ruth Reichl, the NYT has always had a firm grasp on the New York dining scene. As a chef I always find reviews of other restaurants insightful, not only as a measuring stick for my own restaurant but as a sort of compass for what is happening at restaurants no matter their location. In any event the review of the Kobe Club and its subsequent zero star rating have started to make me think of the way restaurants are reviewed in Singapore.
Having been here for a year I have yet to read a review that really tackles the guts of a restaurant and offers a critique that is fair and just. Most of the reviews, including the ones of my restaurant are almost always announced, meaning the reviewer comes in for a meal with me knowing, making for a highly contrived experience. Restaurant critics for highly lauded publications in the States and Europe visit restaurants anonymously, many in disguise and multiple times to paint an accurate picture of what the restaurant is really like. They speak about the food, the wine, the décor, service, the phone greeting and numerous other topics that deliver a view of the holistic experience of dining out. As a chef I welcome the thoughts of those critics who evaluate the experience, rather than simply write an essay on what I fed them at a food tasting.
The Straits Times is Singapore’s NYT and on Sunday the restaurant review is always the first page I flip too. Wong Ah Yoke, the Straits Times restaurant critic, offers his thoughts on the many restaurants in Singapore, but all too often they fall short of a really digestive experience. What I mean is that, although he may visit anonymously, I fail to believe that he visits more than once to get an accurate picture of the restaurants consistency. His commentary on the food is often quite good, especially with local food, but his lack of breadth on western cuisine is noticeable. And, for all the reviews I have read, I have never heard him speak in depth about the experience as a whole. He rates service, décor and food separately, but rarely does he comment about the first two or give justification for there marks. A note, although Wong Ah Yoke has dined here before(we had his picture on the wall in the back) he has never reviewed us and if he does, I welcome his remarks.
I think every restaurant ought to be reviewed and here’s why. Mostly because reviews can serve to educate the consumer on that particular restaurant and pique interest, be it good or bad. Second, and in my opinion the most valid, is that honest reviews create a higher level of dining, thus the competition is greater, weeding out those restaurants who consistently under perform and making way for ambitious restaurants who have to exceed standards to succeed. Lastly, because restaurants experiences can be so subjective, reviews from multiple sources can often tie together all the points that either make a restaurant great or not. Till next time. Good Eating!
Having been here for a year I have yet to read a review that really tackles the guts of a restaurant and offers a critique that is fair and just. Most of the reviews, including the ones of my restaurant are almost always announced, meaning the reviewer comes in for a meal with me knowing, making for a highly contrived experience. Restaurant critics for highly lauded publications in the States and Europe visit restaurants anonymously, many in disguise and multiple times to paint an accurate picture of what the restaurant is really like. They speak about the food, the wine, the décor, service, the phone greeting and numerous other topics that deliver a view of the holistic experience of dining out. As a chef I welcome the thoughts of those critics who evaluate the experience, rather than simply write an essay on what I fed them at a food tasting.
The Straits Times is Singapore’s NYT and on Sunday the restaurant review is always the first page I flip too. Wong Ah Yoke, the Straits Times restaurant critic, offers his thoughts on the many restaurants in Singapore, but all too often they fall short of a really digestive experience. What I mean is that, although he may visit anonymously, I fail to believe that he visits more than once to get an accurate picture of the restaurants consistency. His commentary on the food is often quite good, especially with local food, but his lack of breadth on western cuisine is noticeable. And, for all the reviews I have read, I have never heard him speak in depth about the experience as a whole. He rates service, décor and food separately, but rarely does he comment about the first two or give justification for there marks. A note, although Wong Ah Yoke has dined here before(we had his picture on the wall in the back) he has never reviewed us and if he does, I welcome his remarks.
I think every restaurant ought to be reviewed and here’s why. Mostly because reviews can serve to educate the consumer on that particular restaurant and pique interest, be it good or bad. Second, and in my opinion the most valid, is that honest reviews create a higher level of dining, thus the competition is greater, weeding out those restaurants who consistently under perform and making way for ambitious restaurants who have to exceed standards to succeed. Lastly, because restaurants experiences can be so subjective, reviews from multiple sources can often tie together all the points that either make a restaurant great or not. Till next time. Good Eating!
22.2.07
The Power of a Food Critic Part 1
I try and stay as connected as I can to the New York Restaurant scene, in part because I have a tremendous interest in the food scene there and most importantly, a restaurant in New York has to be good, or it simply won’t last, so the competition is greater and by virtue, the product better. There are many resources I use, including my friends to stay hip and a growing number of websites including eGullet.com, eater.com and the restaurant section of New York Magazine. However, I always default to the New York Times for the latest reviews on the newest restaurants and more specifically to their food critic Frank Bruni for an always interesting read on the psychosis of a restaurants failing or burgeoning success.
One review recently peaked my interest, not so much for the content but for the reverberations of its findings. The restaurant was Kobe Club, a stylishly themed temple to the king of all cows. In it, Mr. Bruni deliberately critiques everything from the décor (2000 Razor sharp samurai swords hanging from the ceiling), to the oversized plate ware (leaving no room for anything else) and of course the food, which is summarized here:
“But more of the food was disappointing, sometimes even infuriating, be it a rubbery roasted pork chop, perhaps left too long in its brine; limp iceberg lettuce, propped up insufficiently by blue cheese; those mashed potatoes, gluey; or a crème brûlée in dire need of a crunchier hood.”
Ouch!!! The twists and turns do not stop there. The Kobe Club is owned by Jeffrey Chodorow, theme master behind China Grill and Asia de Cuba, both of which have stood the test of time and have been hugely successful in New York and elsewhere. He was also behind the now defunct Rocco’s, the eponymous restaurant of Chef Rocco DiSpirito and focus of reality show, The Restaurant. By the way, for all of you who have never seen “The Restaurant”, no worries as it was one of the worst productions in television history, Rocco got fired along with his meatball making grandmother and Mr.Chodorow quickly realized the restaurant was a complete failure, as was the show.
In any event, Mr. Chodorow in lieu of this rather petulant review, fired back with a full page ad a week later lamenting Mr. Bruni and the Times Editor for their findings, saying that the paper was insulting not only him but all of his employees that worked at the restaurant. I have attached the link here in case you were wondering what the full breadth of his diatribe was. Citing Mr. Bruni’s past as a correspondent in Italy focusing on politics, he went on to say that how could a critic for the New York Times, first not be a native New Yorker and second, have no past in the restaurant business. You can imagine the drama it has caused in New York and has sparked debate throughout the World Wide Web. The question: Does a food critic have the influence to single handedly determine whether a restaurant succeeds or fails? I have my thoughts, but welcome yours. Stay tuned for part two. Good Eating.
One review recently peaked my interest, not so much for the content but for the reverberations of its findings. The restaurant was Kobe Club, a stylishly themed temple to the king of all cows. In it, Mr. Bruni deliberately critiques everything from the décor (2000 Razor sharp samurai swords hanging from the ceiling), to the oversized plate ware (leaving no room for anything else) and of course the food, which is summarized here:
“But more of the food was disappointing, sometimes even infuriating, be it a rubbery roasted pork chop, perhaps left too long in its brine; limp iceberg lettuce, propped up insufficiently by blue cheese; those mashed potatoes, gluey; or a crème brûlée in dire need of a crunchier hood.”
Ouch!!! The twists and turns do not stop there. The Kobe Club is owned by Jeffrey Chodorow, theme master behind China Grill and Asia de Cuba, both of which have stood the test of time and have been hugely successful in New York and elsewhere. He was also behind the now defunct Rocco’s, the eponymous restaurant of Chef Rocco DiSpirito and focus of reality show, The Restaurant. By the way, for all of you who have never seen “The Restaurant”, no worries as it was one of the worst productions in television history, Rocco got fired along with his meatball making grandmother and Mr.Chodorow quickly realized the restaurant was a complete failure, as was the show.
In any event, Mr. Chodorow in lieu of this rather petulant review, fired back with a full page ad a week later lamenting Mr. Bruni and the Times Editor for their findings, saying that the paper was insulting not only him but all of his employees that worked at the restaurant. I have attached the link here in case you were wondering what the full breadth of his diatribe was. Citing Mr. Bruni’s past as a correspondent in Italy focusing on politics, he went on to say that how could a critic for the New York Times, first not be a native New Yorker and second, have no past in the restaurant business. You can imagine the drama it has caused in New York and has sparked debate throughout the World Wide Web. The question: Does a food critic have the influence to single handedly determine whether a restaurant succeeds or fails? I have my thoughts, but welcome yours. Stay tuned for part two. Good Eating.
10.2.07
Tomatoes
There has been talk of this farming project for some time now and finally with a little help from mother nature we have finally reaped natures bounty. A collaboration between my farming partner James Khi and myself, these tomatoes are the first step in a long process that will have many ups and downs. Already we have identified varities that do not meet our taste requirements or simply do not respond well to the temperate climate of the Cameron Highlands.
Our first batch of 15 different heirloom seeds produced some astonishing results. The Carbon Tomato, with a skin of deep purple and a dark dense flesh was irresistable. Loaded with tomato flavor that was nuanced with sweet tobacco and a pleasant acidity, this was hands down the best toamto of the lot. Not far behind was a unique yellow hued variety named the Copia, which was striking with a tiger print of yellow and orange streaks. The flavor was quite subdued but pleasing and the flesh was firm and dense.
I think what was striking in hindsight was that before we tasted any of the varieties, James and many of the farmers concluded that one variety would outshine them all. The Henderson Crimson Cushion. A beautiful toamto to look at with picture perfect pleats reminiscent of a pin cusion with a vibrant red hue and perfectly round physique.A jewel by all accounts. But, when we sliced it open we knew immediately that we had been fooled. What was once so promising proved to be a huge dissapointment, as the pinkish flesh gave way to a pithy core and small greenish seedsacks. In many ways this was a blessing and was exactly the reason why we are doing this project. All of those perfectly round, homogenous looking tomatoes we see in the markets are a direct reflection of the consumers need for uniformity. In this pursuit we have lost touch with what good eating is all about, flavor.
If you would like to taste a few of these beautiful gems we will be featuring them over the next few days, so stop on by and say hello. Till next time. Good Eating!
6.1.07
Water
Never before have I been so befuddled by a server’s response to a rather generic question. Could I have a glass of water, please?” I said, “ I’m sorry we don’t serve water here” she replied. Pause. Pause. Pause. Ummmm……..(head weaving in disillusionment)”ok I guess I am fine then”, I finally forced out.
What is remarkable, is the fact that I am speaking of a restaurant in Singapore not Manila. I have spent sleep-less nights, tossing and turning thinking about what would possess a restaurant not to offer regular tap water. I have weighed the pros and cons, thought like a customer and returned back to being a chef. I deliberated the impact it would have on future business and to whether I would return to this particular establishment.
I wondered if economically the restaurant needed the money generated by bottled water to stay afloat. The time, energy and thought I devoted to this single event was consuming me. This is why I have devoted the entirety of my thoughts to this page and to finally cleanse myself of this awful nightmare.
Ok, so I start from the beginning and to clarify, the restaurant in question does serve water, by the bottle only. My particular rant is in lieu of their no tap water policy. In an effort to try and understand as a restaurateur myself, I have put together a few thoughts in defense of this act.
Perhaps the reason they do not serve tap water is because they are afraid of people taking up valuable real estate beside the river and ordering nothing but water. A valid, but, seemingly fruitless thought. I mean how many people pull up a chair ask for a glass of water and parlay the next two hours reading Moby Dick. My guess, not many.
Or perhaps even more relevant is the added stress on the staff, having to pour water for every customer. Again, I see the point but honestly, the time it takes for a waiter or waitress to pour water is irrelevant in the broader context of a meal. This is basic hospitality 101. When you have a guest at your house, at the very least, offer them a glass of water.
Don’t get me wrong, I like bottled water and appreciate the convenience and hygienic standards even more so when trekking across the scorched barren plains of the Gobi Dessert, but when clean, clear refreshing tap water is available, I say pour up.
My most troubling concern though is that I have effectively eliminated this restaurant from all future consideration as a dining destination. I like the setting, I like the food but I just cannot get over them telling me that I could not have tap water. As a restaurateur and chef I cannot impress enough the value of the little details that make a difference. The tiny decisions we make can affect a restaurants success greatly. I wish this particular establishment the best of luck, but as for me I think I will look elsewhere when all I want is a glass of water.
What is remarkable, is the fact that I am speaking of a restaurant in Singapore not Manila. I have spent sleep-less nights, tossing and turning thinking about what would possess a restaurant not to offer regular tap water. I have weighed the pros and cons, thought like a customer and returned back to being a chef. I deliberated the impact it would have on future business and to whether I would return to this particular establishment.
I wondered if economically the restaurant needed the money generated by bottled water to stay afloat. The time, energy and thought I devoted to this single event was consuming me. This is why I have devoted the entirety of my thoughts to this page and to finally cleanse myself of this awful nightmare.
Ok, so I start from the beginning and to clarify, the restaurant in question does serve water, by the bottle only. My particular rant is in lieu of their no tap water policy. In an effort to try and understand as a restaurateur myself, I have put together a few thoughts in defense of this act.
Perhaps the reason they do not serve tap water is because they are afraid of people taking up valuable real estate beside the river and ordering nothing but water. A valid, but, seemingly fruitless thought. I mean how many people pull up a chair ask for a glass of water and parlay the next two hours reading Moby Dick. My guess, not many.
Or perhaps even more relevant is the added stress on the staff, having to pour water for every customer. Again, I see the point but honestly, the time it takes for a waiter or waitress to pour water is irrelevant in the broader context of a meal. This is basic hospitality 101. When you have a guest at your house, at the very least, offer them a glass of water.
Don’t get me wrong, I like bottled water and appreciate the convenience and hygienic standards even more so when trekking across the scorched barren plains of the Gobi Dessert, but when clean, clear refreshing tap water is available, I say pour up.
My most troubling concern though is that I have effectively eliminated this restaurant from all future consideration as a dining destination. I like the setting, I like the food but I just cannot get over them telling me that I could not have tap water. As a restaurateur and chef I cannot impress enough the value of the little details that make a difference. The tiny decisions we make can affect a restaurants success greatly. I wish this particular establishment the best of luck, but as for me I think I will look elsewhere when all I want is a glass of water.
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